Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

I want to stick a threadless 1 1/8 in fork in my old frame with 1 inch threaded fork stock. Am I understanding this RJ video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OHcjh4O20ko&t=145s
right when I'm thinking I can just stick a threadless 1 1/8 inch headset in the headtube?

Am I understanding this RJ video right when I'm thinking I can just stick a threadless 1 1/8 inch headset in the headtube?

No

1” and 1 1/8” relate to the size. You can change the type of headset but the size is fixed.

I just rewatched the vid and caught that the trek had a wider headtube, my bad.

Also known as an Iwanson gauge, just for ease of googling.

You need a hope adapter, they have more of a bump in them. Pretty much nothing else will work unfortunately.

It arrived today, haven't fitted yet

I want to convert my drop bar bike to a flat bar. I currently have Sram Red 11spd eTap. Sram only makes a 12spd trigger shifter. Does anyone know whether I can use a 12spd trigger shifter with the 11spd rear mech?

I have a square taper bb that binds up when I tighten up the nds cup/sleeve. It spins very freely when the cup is in there finger tight but when I tighten it fully there is a lot of resistance in the spindle (noticeable with the cranks on as well). As I understand this could be due to the poor manufacturing tolerances of the UN300 compared to the UN55 and bearings not being perfectly aligned...?

Would it be best to run the nds torqued up and put up with the resistance or run the nds a bit loose? Any downsides to the latter?

The cups have opposing thread directions to ensure they tighten during use rather than loosen. So you may end up with it torquing itself, especially with binding bearings. I would also see if you could have the BB shell chased and faced. Cruddy threads or out of parallel shell faces could cause the cups to go out of alignment at higher torque. But a UN55 might be cheaper.

You've not bought a 73mm shell version by any chance? The UN300s don't seem quite as nice as the 55s but I've never seen one do that, they're still relatively decent parts.

11spd SRAM etap and 12spd etap AXS aren’t compatible. You’d have to get a 11spd blip box and some blips.

This was exactly my experience with a Campag Centaur BB (in a brand new bare metal frame). I removed and refitted a couple of times but couldn't see any reason for it binding other than poor tolerances. The manual even says something about backing off the torque and using loctite if it binds which I felt was a poor solution.
Even at the reduced setting it was still too tight IMO.
Sent it back to the supplier in the end who claimed there was nothing wrong with it.
I then read about a couple of other people who had exactly the same issue!
Switched to a Sugino and it was perfect.
Can you return the BB you have? at least to see if another of the same model behaves the same...

Might be campag's tooling on that line is a bit worn so its not making full depth threads in the BB all the way along = gets super tight to fit, could result in cracking the BB shell if forced in there (unlikely)

@snottyotter @aniki Thanks for the responses, this is a bb I have had in the frame for a while (so pretty sure right shell, spindle etc). bb shell is faced on the ds and then the nds cup doesn't have a lip so i assume facing isn't important there - do you mean checking if the threading is parallel either side? Job for a shop?

I took it out as I wanted to denitrol the inside of the frame and when I put it back it started binding. The daft thing is I can't remember if this is something that happened first time round and I just backed it off until it span freely, then subsequently forgot. Might try the campag route and locktite it in. Haven't died yet but it just seems like a pants solution.

Clearly the awesome power in my legs was too much for two of my rear wheel spokes this morning, one of which is bent and the other snapped at the hub. Is this a piss-easy fix? Two spare spokes, bung them in, true the wheel and away you go? Or should I consider whether the entire wheel is up to what I put it through (light acceleration away from a corner with a very lightly loaded pannier on the rack), bite the bullet and replace? FWIW, I'll be touring on this bike, so I'd like to not have to fix spokes again in future.

Whack some spokes in, tension them so they sound similar to the others, if it's pretty straight then you're probably fine to give it a fine tune and carry on, if you need to have tensions all over the place to force it straight then the rim is fucked, if all the spokes are quite loose that was probably why they broke and more breakages may be on the horizon.

Sorry, figured it was a new BB, maybe get a new BB, or at least try another.

The spokes are an easy fix, as you described but my experience of breaking spokes is that more break later down the line. It’s usually due to crap quality spokes more than anything. Either replace the spokes or the whole wheel. Decent tough spokes are not expensive but can take a while if you haven’t done the job before.

My suspicion is the spokes are crap. Not an old wheel by any stretch and it wasn't under that much stress when I heard the dreaded ping. And no, I haven't done this before, so the idea of replacing the lot with decent tough spokes isn't appealing.

Also, annoyingly, this is a disc wheelset with QR skewers, so I'm assuming any replacement needs to be the same, i.e., I can't buy a thru-axle wheel and a conversion kit of some description.

I have one of these, with a wishbone. I want to fit a rear mudguard. Has anyone got any smart ideas that don't involve zip ties? I was thinking maybe a clamp around the wishbone with a long bolt through the mudguard fixed into the clamp but I can't think what clamp would allow that.

Would a 4mm bolt be sturdy enough zip tied into one of these https://www.jensonusa.com/globalassets/product-images---all-assets/problem-solvers/ca309z03.jpg

1 Attachment

I think that's a good option. Will try and find stock of UN55 but if you reckon the 300s are still decent I'll just try my luck with another

I've never had that problem with any of them, what length do you need?

A clamp with boss like this:

And then a flat, straight bit of metal to bolt to the boss and and a hole drilled below for you to mount the guard to.