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Might want to treat it before painting with something like SikaGard Wood Preserve. I think you’d be fine. Most summer houses and the like softwood but you’d usually treat them with a preservative of sorts to help reduce rot.
**Disclaimer, I know nothing about wood
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Wouldn't that be quite chunky (30mm) at the overlap than e.g. shiplap cladding?
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Issue is usually getting quality timber in the first place, straight and not twisted, having it dry enough to paint successfully, not too many knots.
If you have decent dry timber, use some kind of knotting on knots or dry them out with an ir gun and fill them. Then something that soaks into the timber is good, Dulux have a very thin primer that is ok, the original more toxic version was much better, and either dulux trade exterior system on top or starting from bare wood, zinsser 123 if you can let if dry a couple of days you might get no bleed through zinsser cover up if not and on top of that zinsser all coat.
Either of those 2 systems should last 10 years in white but any problems with knots could show on the surface in 6 months. Knots really are your biggest enemy with pine either exterior or interior. It's why close grain woods without much knotting have become so popular for new windows.
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andos
rhowe
Airhead
@Sheppz
@Airhead or anyone else with external timber finishing tekkers - would I be crazy to use this pine skirting profile as external cladding - if I used a proper external finishing system ( osmo or zinsser ) ? It’s only an external porch fascia I’m doing
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