Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

Should do, so long as you get the appropriate BCD (104mm I think?). You may need shorter chainring bolts (single rather than double). It'll probably give you the best chainline in the middle ring position.

basic question here. rear shifting is awful on my 10 speed set up. the issue has lasted across a change of frames and changed shifters (5700 to 6700). the main problem is shifting into a high gear (smaller sprocket) from cassette sprocket number 9 (second largest sprocket), possibly also sprockets 10 and 8 but I can't remember. I have spent ages adjusting, readjusting and lining everything up and my other 10spd bike (my mtb) shifts good. current theories are that because the freehub body is gnarled and getting the cassette off is a real struggle, I have done something to the cassette. the other theory is cable friction especially due to the cabling under the bars is holding the derailer back. Chain, by the way, still has life, the .75 prong won't slide between links. Anything else?

I got another M5 bolt and screwed it into the hole, for some reason it had no problem catching and it seems to have cleared enough that the barrel will now screw in, think it solved it.

How far in do I want the barrel adjuster when setting up the rear mech (as if it was brand new)? Tightened right up? Half way? I've never known.

All the way in, then back off two complete turns.

....keep talkin'

Make sure the cable is clamped in the correct orientation on the derailleur. Clamping it wrong can change the pull ratio a tiny bit.

Great suggestion, would never have occurred to me, I'll go check now

Is the derailleur hanger straight and tight? I've had similar problems caused by a wonky hanger.

Also check jockey wheels, are they overly loose or worn?

I'd like to fit a 100mm shimano dynamo hub to a 110 fork. The hub has a centre-lock disc, can I adapt the spacing? What do I do about the disc?

Is there any reason why a frame couldn't run a triple crankset? I've got a Sonder Santiago and just spit balling ideas of running a MTB triple, 48/36/26.

MTB chainline will be a bit further out, and you may need to fiddle about with your front mech a bit to get it to reach, but I'd say go for it.
(I'm running an XT double chainset on my Cotic Escapade, similar principle.)

@Pifko @chiroshi thanks both, i'm stuck doing this myself and can't check hanger exactly, will do my best. I looked at jockey wheels, I think they're OK.

Does anyone in London have the campagnolo magnetic cable guide that I can borrow? I’m setting a frame up with EPS and the interface and front mech cables I threaded fine by hand but the rear derailleur is a nightmare….

Possibly stupid question here - running Campag Zonda C17 wheels, the rear keeps coming loose during rides, I can't seem to tighten the locking adequately as there is nothing to tighten against as it's reverse thread and the 5mm Allen key on the opposite side is not, so tightening one loosens the other.

What am I doing wrong?

You should have a 5 mm Allen key in the drive side as well that lets you hold the axle when tightening the lock ring?

It won't fit through some frames. I usually shave a bit the plastic and fix it to the guide with electric cable. If that fails drill a bigger hole

The drive side is just a circular hole with nothing to grip on to.

Failing me finding a new Bitex freehub (https://www.lfgss.com/comments/16689418/) has anyone knocked the bearings out of a R07T-B2C1 and had it live to tell the tale?

I have, swapped mine out no problems, can also see if I can get hold of a new freehub for you, but guessing it'll be Tuesday before I can find out, the distro is proper old school and has a big catalogue and no b2b site.

Ta.

Any idea what bearing code it is? Might be easier/cheaper than finding new freehub

Not of the top of my head, probably 6809, easy enough to measure before you knock that broken one out though, it might be printed on the outer race to confirm when you do knock it out too.

Thanks mate, I've taken it to LBS and they just happened to have matching bearing in stock so I left it with them to swap out. Should be all good soon.

Thanks for the info. Turns out getting a 48/36/26 10-speed crankset is either impossible or prohibitively priced so will park this idea for now.

Another question, is it fine to leave this as is to connect to dynamo hub, or should be be shinkwrapped to stop water ingress?

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