Home DIY

What is the proper way to hide these cables to code?

They were in a massive boxed out skirting but need/want to make it smaller.

In theory the cables would fit straight behind a bit of skirting board but is that legit? I could chase into the wall but not sure that makes a whole lot of difference

No floor void btw, concrete.

1 Attachment

Did you do a sip floor on your block piers? Or timber floor with sips on top? Presumably if you used a SIP floor you used timbers as joiners rather than splines?

Interesting about the gripfill! I’m not a fan of gripfill but I’ll do some more digging.

Glad to hear you had a good experience, I assume you had help installing the panels? Mine are all just big standard 8x4s and I’ll be doing all the “manufacturing” myself. They’re f*cking heavy though so install will be a 2 man job for sure.

Noted about the design side, I think I’ve already got that firmed up but I will definitely make sure it’s finalised before starting in earnest!

Had a sticky pop-up plug in the sink. Then it got properly jammed in.
Aggressive use of a plunger managed to pop it back out, then removed, stripped, greased and reassembled the mechanism. Now silky smooth action as new. Very satisfying.

We went down the refurb route and with modern weather strips the heat retention is noticeably better, even keeping original SG panes.

Having a wonderful time with the kitchen renos. We pulled out three layers of flooring to find a cracked slab. Turns out it isn't the base, but a 30mm screed over rotten ply and at least 2 more layers of vinyl tiles.

Going to be interesting to see if we've finally hit something solid enough to put a floor on...

Just think of all that headroom.

Never heard of SIPS but I have a feeling this is about to be v useful info.
I don't suppose you made a project thread for this?

Just seems weird that the flooring guys felt the need to call a specialist in after poking it with a Stanley knife for 2 minutes and insisting it wouldn't need the whole thing ripping out. Specialist turned up in a suit, shiny shoes and gave it a good whack.

1 Attachment

Yeah but whoever it was has excellent taste in pry bars.

They're mine! Not enough pockets in the suit for his own it seems.

I have the blue and the small black one. They are superior to every other pry bar I’ve ever used.

Well don't leave us tool pervs hanging...what pry bar is it?! I can see a need for a pry bar, as opposed to massive crowbar, in my near future. Thanks

Anyone have any tips for breaking up a concrete shed base - is it worth DIY ing or is this a "you won't regret paying someone" job? Happy to hire a breaker...

How thick is it?
Does it have any reinforcing steel within it?

Good questions - not 100% sure until I get into it!

Prob about 3" deep.

Lift it up a bit with a crowbar, pickaxe or similar and hit it with a lump or sledgehammer. Edit: wear eye protection

There are others that appear very similar, but the quality of steel on these is simply superior.
https://www.axminstertools.com/japanese-reform-bar-200522
and
https://www.axminstertools.com/japanese-restorer-s-cat-s-paw-110206

I’ve literally just had 6.5kw of panels, a solis inverter and 10kw of puredrive batteries installed. If you’ve got any burning questions I’ll do my best to answer them.

I’m reference to your actual question, when you say a “self heating battery”, is that the same as a “solar battery” - which to all intents and purposes is a hot water tank with an immersion heater in.

We already have a hot water tank with 2 immersion heaters, so I bought a box called a Solic - which basically takes any excess solar that you would otherwise be exporting to the grid, and instead diverts it to the immersion heater, giving you free hot water. So it basically turns our hot water tank into a “solar battery”, for £200. It certainly works, water has been noticeably more plentiful and red hot since installing!

Aha thank you

Bit of a dredge, but tuppence on saws is CORDLESS circular saw (go brushless if you can), 240v track saw.

Cordless for rough work / construction / when you need to cut something quickly or in an awkward / precarious place.

240v track saw because half the point of a track saw is dust extraction, if you’re spending out on track saw, spend £50-80 on a shop vac with power take off. If you’ve got a hose connected might as well just plug it in and start the vac every time you start the saw.

go brushless if you can

Out of interest, why do you say that?

Caulked and being primed. Harris foam rollers can >>>>>. About 30 mins use each and the foam separated completely from the rollers. Halted this evenings progress.

Also, NTD. The new (ish) quadrive TPC with corner attachment (!). So cool.

2 Attachments

I know similar been asked many times but - best finish for interior wood situation? It's a pine bed headboard. Had some kind of (oil?) finish that went kinda gummy on the front although the side that was facing the wall is fine. Been scraping it off with turps.

Want a finish that will feel dry to the touch ie won't transfer oil to bed linen or feel tacky and won't go weird with skin contact, being leant against etc. Some kind of hard wax or oil finish? Strip it properly then use a varnish?

The pine is already slightly yellow and not too bothered about the finish being not clear, but don't want a dark stained finish.

I am definitely not an expert but would Osmo Polyx or Liberon Finishing Oil be suitable?

Purdy dove have been my favourites in recent years. Leyland sell them.