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• #2703
Ah yeah that’d be great thank you! LMK how much you need etc.
Superglue holding up for now.
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• #2704
Doing a shimergo conversion after reading an article on cxmag. do i need new outer cables as well as inner cables please? also, wiggle’s lifeline range seems well stocked and reasonable for campag cables, anywhere else I should try (not in london currently)
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• #2705
I'm pretty sure that brake cable inner and outers are all the same type/dimensions.
Campagnolo gear outer cables are a different size to Shimano.
Campagnolo gear inners are also different (at least in the shape of the heads, not sure about cable diameter). -
• #2706
perfect! thank you!!!!
edit: can't find any gear outer advertised as campy. will try with shimano compatible gear outer and see and if its a no go then move on -
• #2707
I'm after a new toolbox for bike tools specifically. Any forum recommendations? Ideally I'd like one on wheels, vertical stacking type (like tradesmen use) as the storage in our shed doesn't have particularly deep shelving, maybe with some trays. Tool fans on here seem to like the foam cutout posh ones, should I really be going for those?
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• #2708
Uniour
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• #2709
I've misplaced the crank arm pre-load bolt on my grx cranks. Are these specific to this crank or will any Shimano fixing bolts do the trick?
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• #2710
I think there’s a couple of sizes for the thread, actually maybe a couple diameter and a couple depths.
Might be older stuff though, newer it might all be the same.
Your lbs will likely have something in the way of a preload bolt kicking about that you can try and see.
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• #2711
Thanks, had a spare one laying about but no joy. I'll pop around the lbs at lunch.
In another question, installed the front derailleur but two questions. At its lowest setting on the braze on, the gap to the large chainring is about 3-4mm, this is ok without leading to any catastrophic issues? I normally have band-on or run road chainrings so never had a Gap bigger than 2mm.
And, do I need one of this backing plates for the front derailleur?
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• #2712
You don't need a backing plate in a metal frame, only if the bolt is digging on carbon.
3mm will do fine -
• #2713
.
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• #2714
Has anyone installed a Cane Creek T47 BB and can tell me what tool fits? I have a Wolftooth 5612 which should fit in theory, but it's just a smidge too small (or rather the teeth are too big)
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• #2715
Cool, thought so. But I still need to dial the bolt in so it rests against the frame right?
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• #2716
Use the backing plate if you care about the paint. Yes, it should be resting against the frame.
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• #2717
Yeah the bolt should be always supporting the derailleur
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• #2718
Fwiw I installed a campag t47 bb with the correct park tool, and the fit was suuuper tight. I basically bashed it in with a rubber mallet.
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• #2719
Never fitted a square taper crank/BB before. Is this a normal gap on the non-drive side? For reference, it's a Shimano BB, 68mm X 110mm which I think is the right one for the job
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• #2720
Doesn't look obviously awful. A more useful reference point will be where the end of the crank arm passes the chainstay.
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• #2721
The distance between the crank arm and chainstay is about 12-13mm by eye.
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• #2722
Seems reasonable
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• #2723
Stripped the female thread of the barrel adjuster on a GRX 812 rear mech. 1 year old. Is it now an expensive piece of junk or is it salvageable?
The barrel adjuster won't go in at all.
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• #2724
I'd try a tap first and a new adjuster, if that fails you may be able to drill it and add a threaded insert if a lack of threads is the problem, at worse if you can get a barrel adjuster to sit where it's meant to go you can add an inline adjuster for actual adjustment.
Have a search for clamp on cable stops? Various options out there, will depend on your frame/needs.