Home DIY

Posted on
Page
of 1,883
First Prev
/ 1,883
Last Next
  • Cancel the party. Blame the boss

  • I will mention that. Doubt it will work though. Thanks for the input 😀

  • Why not pallet wrap? Is the Boss more concerned about stains or impacts? https://www.maxpack.co.uk/product/stickystretch-blown-hand-pallet-wrap/

    Edit: Bonus advantage is that you can use it to cover all the food before guests arrival, and after they leave because they feel uncomfortable being in a house entirely wrapped in plastic.

  • It has an amazing ability to leave funny marks on stuff tho.

    If I had any surface I was precious about I would be loathe to stick anything to it tbh.

  • Lol, fuck that shop and the joker that runs it. So rude and impatient.

  • Turns out this is exactly what I need, but a stainless steel version


    1 Attachment

    • 826B7D7E-26C1-4559-BA4B-207F144DD3F5.png
  • Is there any way of replacing this pneumatic shite with something which actually works properly without having to replace the whole flush mechanism? At the moment it's necessary to 'pump' the buttons a couple of times, which I'm sure shouldn't be necessary.

    The actuators come off easily enough, but I can't find any alternative to the air-operated rubbish. Would be happy to replace the flush plate, but don't think that gets me anywhere.

    It's all Ideal Standard Conceala 2 kit. There's a replacement kit for the offending parts but I'm not sure the current ones are actually faulty rather than just rubbish.


    1 Attachment

    • 2022-09-09 13.01.jpg
  • I think I'm confusing myself with all the solar stuff now.

    Do I want a self heating battery? Is that an insane indulgence or a necessity for UK winter?

  • At the moment it's necessary to 'pump' the buttons a couple of times, which I'm sure shouldn't be necessary.

    When mine did that it was because the bellows were cracked. Replaced it and all good for the last few years.

  • I suspected that but they both seem intact. Hard to tell though given that they're only sealed against the red plastic part when actually installed.

    Did you find replacements without having to buy that whole kit I linked to?

  • That last time I had to deal with one of these it was because the mechanism the air was activating had stiffened up AND the hoses were really long. So air was being compressed instead of actually activating the mechanism. I freed up the mechanism and shortened the hoses and it worked. Yours don't look too long though, so this is probably not much help.

  • Fitting before glue up.

    Most satisfying image for me today is the level vs either side.


    2 Attachments

    • 50B29F02-97ED-48A0-8E12-DCEBB3E3E4ED.jpeg
    • CA2901DC-511D-46D6-B13A-EBC8ACCACE2C.jpeg
  • In my case the bit you push had failed. I replaced only that end.

  • The hoses were long, I'd already shortened them years ago thinking along the same lines.

    Manually pressing the full flush (having removed the pneumatic stuff) definitely has some strong initial resistance, maybe I'll have the whole thing out and give it a once-over.

  • Ah, right. I checked those by covering the other the of the hose with a finger and they're definitely fine.

  • No evidence of the flush being a problem. Used some vaseline to try and make sure the diaphragms are sealed, dunno if that's a long term solution but it seems to have improved things slightly.

    Have however discovered that the slow trickle into the bog that I thought was due to the seal at the bottom was actually coming from the entry to the fill valve. Tightening that has sorted it.

    Also found a slower drip from the inlet valve. Can't seem to stop that one so guess it needs replacing.

    Cracking start to the weekend anyway, really got my mind off all the misery.

  • Fixing a toilet is a job from hell

  • Not sure if this is the right thread but there's been some Tado chat here before

    I'm doing a major house refurb and installing wet underfloor heating throughout the whole ground floor with a combination of carpet and engineered wood as the flooring on top.

    The UFH supplier people (Nu-Heat) are providing gratis a smart system to a) control the max temp for the engineered wood areas b) give zoned areas downstairs. It's this:

    https://heatmisershop.co.uk/homekit-enabled-heatmiser-neohub-gen-2/

    with a Neostat 2:

    https://heatmisershop.co.uk/heatmiser-neostat-v2-programmable-thermostat/

    Upstairs will be radiators so am looking at Tado Smart Radiator thermostats on each rad. My main question is it looks like I will have 2 separate smart heating systems. is there a unifying interface to control both? I am hoping Google Home can do this but have no experience of it. Any help gratefully accepted.

  • In that case I'm feeling pretty pleased with myself, cos it's definitely better than it was and I'm not covered in shit.

  • Clearly needs compressionless hoses

  • Plasterboard question: can you get (skim?) a quick repair on pealing finishing tape? Or is it a case of taking it all off and replacing?

    During the heat the finishing tape in the corner of one room (that’s recently been painted 🤦‍♂️) started coming a way from the walls. I’m assuming it’s all cosmetic (no signed of damp etc) but it just looks ugly.

    I’d rather not have to repaint the whole wall again if the whole tape needs redoing, nor does it seem worthwhile to get someone out for such a small job if it’s easy to get it “good enough” oneself. Photo makes it look worse than it looks IRL, and it’s about a 20cm area


    1 Attachment

    • BEBB96B7-92EE-4F8D-A44B-FBC8630F9E2D.jpeg
  • Not sure how you are going to glue that tape back to the ceiling. Normally it has a light tack and is held in place by the plaster which covers it completely. Hard to say what's going to happen when you touch it.

    My approach would probably be cut it out with a sharp blade and fill/skim with toupret interior filler, sand and paint the patch. If the paint is more than a few years old it will show even if you have some of the old paint left over.

  • Thanks, good to know. I wasn’t expecting to be able to stick it back, but wondered if there was something that could go over the top to “repair” it and cover up the edge.

    This is what I’d initially found but wasn’t sure if that would do!

    Paint is 12 weeks old, hence why I wasn’t keen on redoing the whole wall of all the tape had to come off…

  • It does depend on what has been applied to the tape. If it's had any kind of hard filler or plaster on it then good luck sticking it back down without the filler/plaster cracking up. If that happens and you have border paste to stick it down you'll have adhesive and tons of crumbly plaster to clean up before you have to cut it out and fill it!

    If it's just flexible tape with a bit of paint on it you could try border paster, usually used for wallpaper borders it's just a ready mixed wallpaper paste or any kind of pva glue might do.

  • Super helpful, thanks. Looks like it’s just been painted over previously (looks a bit like when you paint over masking tape and it peels away). That tourpet stuff you mentioned looks like it’ll do the trick, and as it’s power can mix as much as I need and won’t waste any.

  • Post a reply
    • Bold
    • Italics
    • Link
    • Image
    • List
    • Quote
    • code
    • Preview
About

Home DIY

Posted by Avatar for hippy @hippy

Actions