Home DIY

I think it’s like a white granite or similar porous stone.

Oil cloth with tablecloth underlay.

https://www.johnlewis.com/john-lewis-non-slip-table-protector-ivory/p4175276

or this stuff

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08QN9HPDH/

Thanks but my wife has specified stick down. <<< not me!!! 😀

As in - glue?

Carpet tape would work, I guess.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/everbuild-double-sided-cloth-carpet-tape-mesh-clear-25m-x-50mm/440fr

Plastic tablecloths and gaffer tape on the edges. Anything else will be a pig to fit and remove

That’s a very practical idea. I will put that forward to my authorities. Thanks

This also works but it might be a bit more sticky than you like and it's tricky to lay it completely flat.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-hard-floor-protection-roll-25m-x-500mm/32544

Thanks. That’s looks a lot like the window protection our builder used. It was a nightmare to remove - at least half a day for his labourer!! I will check with him. Thanks.

The hard surface versions are usually low tack to save problems lifting varnish.

Thanks. I will check it out. Tacky enough but not too sticky - FFS - from my boss 😂😂😂

What about that vinyl stuff they use for temporary decals?
Sounds like the one in charge is willing to spend some bux.

I will discuss the bosses ability to spend shortly. Wish me luck!!! Don’t expect a response soon!!!

Waiting on baited tenterhooks.

@TGR this.

We had some vinyl that we used to cover a manky fridge (rust spots and various staining) in our first rental that we got cheap online somewhere. Stayed put for a year and peeled off easily. Maybe even look at window films in B&Q?

Found these lights cheaper on eBay but they don’t come with drivers. Can I just buy aftermarket drivers and if so which ones?

Thanks. Boss says I have to check it out.

Thanks for that. Boss wants transparent stuff. Nothing is ever easy!

Ok, what part of this have I forgotten and will therefore catch fire and leave a smoking crater in the earths crust where SE23 used to be?

Solar Panels>Isolator>Solar charge controller>Battery storage>Inverter>CU>Lighting and power circuits.

how many spots will you be after? and will they be dimable?

each one is 11.4w, so i'd just make sure to get a driver that has a rating above the combined total wattage depending on how many (note: not a pro, but things haven't blown up yet and the electrician who put it all together didn't note anything off).

recently got stuff to do some under-cabinet LED strip lighting from these guys:
https://www.ultraleds.co.uk/led-components/led-drivers.html

their customer/chat folks are decent, so could run it past them too

I'd want the load connected through the charge controller which should do things like prevent discharging your battery below a threshold and killing it.

Big fuse on the battery.

Is this for a new install? If so perhaps install DC lighting and get rid of the inverter inefficiencies where you can.

If this is connecting to your existing CU 'cause you don't trust the grid this winter then some sort of change over switch? And a will.

Install in a garage, I've been Googling DC/12v lighting and unless you're outfitting an RV there's not a lot of information (that I've found).

Bunch of MR16 spots directly connected to 12V? Might need extra chunky cables to reduce voltage drop, I'd do some calculations.

I don't know what calculations those would be, but I could do some empirical research fairly easily.

Yacht stuff is all 12v too.

But probably 10x the cost.

some calculations.

10 x 5W AC/DC MR16 bulbs will drop 0.75V over 5m, according to the back of a fag packet.