Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

SRAM doubletap, as mentioned it's a replaceable hanger that's broken, designed to break so that the frame is less likely to do so because derailleurs are big hangy down things and prone to getting damaged. I'd guess it happened because the lower limit screw wasn't properly adjusted or you'd bent the hanger without noticing and it's gone into the spokes, possibly both. It happens quite often. Front not shifting down is a separate issue and probably a poorly set up front mech.

Thanks for the tip! I’ll look for a new hanger and derailer and get back on the road :)

@TooTallTim @MCamb thanks.

Follow up question, is the disc brake cleaner just for the disc or for the pads too?

Personally, I only use it on the rotors. For pads, if it can't be cleaned off using sand paper, or water and fairy liquid, it's best just to replace them.

Yep. The pads are much more porous than the rotors so the oil tends to penetrate pretty deep into them. Very hard to get the oil out of them completely

Once pads are contaminated it's hard to fix them. If anyone knows how to I've got about 3 sets of Ultegra pads they can have.

Never installed a MTB derailleur before. I gather this is a dual pull derailleur. I'm installing cables from the bottom. What's the cable routing to make this work?

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Looks like between the little plates at bottom left with the notch, over the top and to the clamp, but if you fit it and pull the cage out by hand you can generally see where the clamp needs to move to and where the cable should come from to make it do so.

Downpull.

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Front not shifting down is a separate issue and probably a poorly set up front mech.

Or because it's SRAM, where shit front shifting is an integral design feature.

Thanks, I'll give that a go. At least I would if the derailleur wasn't 34.9mm band on instead they 28.9mm I need

Shimmy shimmy shimmy.

Are there any 34.9 to 28.6 shims? Most I've found got 28.6 to 31.8 or 31.8 to 34.9

Intergrated headset standards have once again got the better of me.
Trying to figure if this headset lower will work on a Carbonda 696 (which is also an On-one Free Ranger, amongst other branded frames).
I believe it will work but what throws me is that the headset Planet-X recommends for their frame uses a bearing 'Lower: OD:51.8MM ID:40MM 36x45', where as I'm assuming the Hope headset lower uses a 45x45 bearing.
Am I just assuming wrong, does this matter, please help lol

I don't know which angle the hope one is but assuming the fork has an integrated crown race then yes it does matter that the angle is correct

I needed a 28.6-34.9mm shin recently and ended up just cutting a headset spacer in half and using that.

Thanks!
Looks like the fork does not have an intergrated race (at least not on Carbonda's own version), so I assume with the correct/matching crown race, a standard IS52/40 headset lower should work.

then yes it does matter that the angle is correct

Does it though?

I’ve bodged together a load of regular 1 1/8” press in cup and integrated type headset bearings and some 44mm and 56mm headtube stuff with whatever crown races I’ve had on hand and never had to bother measuring angles.

Have I just gotten lucky?

Top bearings are a different matter, the split wedge seems to sit atop some and inside others so you definitely need to get a pairing that works together.

Carbon though init.
If it has an integrated crown race as most carbon forks do and the bearing is the wrong angle, only the fine edge of the bearing will transmit all of the force into the fork bearing surface rather than the flats mating up

Ah yeah ok fair enough.

Oh... I'll need to dig through the tool box to see if I have anything that will work.

Will the newer Shimano MTB 9 speed cassettes work with old 9 speed shifters derailleurs? Shimano didn't do anything shady right?

My look keo max pedals have play. As in, the pedal body travels up the axle. This can be stopped by hand tightening the small plastic nut in the pic, but it quickly undoes again… are they buggered?

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I think there’s a tool, which would do them up tighter and they hopefully stay that way longer. Could always just grip it and rip it with channel locks or something too.

Other than running full length outers for brake cables, any other solution to put v-brake on the rear where there are no cable stops on the frame? It was designed for cantis so doesn't have second cable stop.

There is a particular size of ring spanner (I think it was 18mm or 19mm), that fits nicely over Look pedal nut.

Or wrap with a cut rectangle of inner tube rubber and then use mole grips.

You might also consider blue Loctite on the threads, if you have any.