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• #37452
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hSjU6HPO-0s
If its taper edge, the tapered edges are super easy to get a good finish with only basic tools (scrim, easyfil 60, sand pad, jointing knife, tunes), for butt joints a little trickier to get a good finish. But if its a garage and your not fussed just scrim tape it, and run over it once. IDeally you'd run over the butt joints 2 or 3 times, each time leveling out over a larger area, then sand in until its invisible to anyone normal.
Screw heads, make sure they are in, cut any paper sticking out the holes, light sand, fill over with easyfil, sand a few hours later, paint.UK is obsessed with just skimming plaster over absolutely everything, if you get your boards level and in good shape you don't need to do this, and I'm pretty anal about finish.
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• #37453
I think the main advantage of skimming is that it’s a harder finish. Plasterboard will dent a lot easier than a skimmed wall, and impact boards aren’t as common (and they’re heavier and more expensive), and if you’re going to have to get someone to fill/finish it, it’s just as easy to get a plasterer as it is to get someone to fill the drywall. And no matter how well you feather a butt joint, it will still be a high point.
FWIW I’ve done a fair bit of drywalling and always wondered the same - and those were the answers I got from various tradespeople.
I still can’t quite decide which I’ll go for when we buy our next house as it’ll inevitably be a place that needs work.
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• #37454
Cheers. My dad's raves about his Milwaukee knife. I've got about 6 Stanley knives of various brands and vintages, set up for woodworking, carpets, wallpaper etc..
I'll give the sample of flooring we have a go with knives and see how it goes. If not it's shopping for a tracksaw or mitre saw because #buyer
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• #37455
Yes and yes
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• #37456
Was previous owner a Brexit type? Looks like a flag pole base to me.
Engerluuunnnndddd
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• #37457
Im in 2 minds myself about the above, for an amateur i’m good at feathering out an edge and getting it all smooth but wonder if buying a big bag of filler and a fuck off big knife if the way to go or pay the drywall chap to finish ready for paint? (will be internal insulating a 2 bed flat)
what happens about the area between the joins and the texture? do you have to use a sponge on the filler to get a similar finish?
probably at the limit of my skillset but with 3 rooms to do i might have it locked down by the time i get to the lounge. -
• #37458
In France they laugh at the British skimming everything. It's all just plasterboard, scrim and filler here. Piece of piss.
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• #37459
Nothing showing up on street view going back to 2009… Just that it was a driveway 1-2ft above current level.
Maybe part of a drain?! 1” seems narrow though and it doesn’t currently drain.
Why you’d just turf (badly) over it I don’t know. -
• #37460
I search for those and get the stuff you have to plaster over/use jointing compound, which is what I would like to avoid.
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• #37461
not sure there’s much you don’t have to use any jointing compound with, but this is more papery:
https://www.wickes.co.uk/Knauf-Reinforcing-Joint-Tape-For-Plasterboards---50mm-x-150m/p/220215?fix&gclid=CjwKCAjw9suYBhBIEiwA7iMhNAFQ4OUQ34owZ5rYjo2EMjSiKByXvTUeDNTlHu2AjhqdaC6MupJP_BoCw8UQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.dsbut i think does still need bedding in, not sure whether it has a sticky side or not tbh - i did use this ready-mixed stuff for small areas of filling:
https://www.wickes.co.uk/Knauf-Fill-and-Finish-Light---5kg/p/149400 -
• #37462
upside down scaffolding pole base plate
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• #37463
That was my first thought but it’s too thick and completely stuck - I assume welded to pipe!
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• #37464
Have got a hole in plasterboard where previous owners have used cheap plasterboard screws for putting up a shelf.
Hole is roughly 25mm x 15mm, is there a quick solution to fixing this other than cutting the hole square and using some backing wood?
Has anyone had any luck with something like these:
https://www.toolstation.com/gyproc-easipatch-plasterboard-patches/
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• #37465
Toupret internal filler?
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• #37466
I have this awning (the clear corrugated plastic part).
I want to add a gutter to it, because the runoff just digs a trench in the grass below it and annihilates anything we try to grow there.
Unfortunately there's no real fascia to attach brackets to. Am I out of luck?
1 Attachment
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• #37467
Attach a fascia to the supports?
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• #37468
Side Rafter gutter brackets
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• #37469
I’ve never seen a tape-and-jointed wall where you can’t still see a trace of it once painted (not saying it’s not possible though!)
I’ve seen it done by a self-titled expert from over the pond once and it took him longer than it would’ve taken a plasterer, and it looked so shit he got it skimmed afterwards!
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• #37470
I’m thinking of just using flashing tape and painting it, cowboy builder style. But, be nice if I could paint the tape (I suspect butyl tape/similar won’t take paint well).
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• #37471
The advantage of being able to see the joints is I know where the beams are to fix into.
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• #37472
If you just want it sealed for dust/draft, caulk the joint.
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• #37473
That’s definitely an advantage! I don’t think you can paint normal scrim tape, but the textile type stuff might be paintable.
Like Nef says, maybe caulk is best? -
• #37474
Need to install new newel caps on to stairs, does it matter if it's pine or oak or whatnot if it's going to be painted?
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• #37475
Joint filler/easyfil + paper tape knifed over it, then just paint it. Have done that before in workshop where I don't care about finish, just want no gaps or holes.
Hm possibly, although it seems quite heavy duty for that.