Home DIY

Installer chap ran out of 90 deg bends when putting it in? Ours are set up as Howard describes (with the recent addition of wire wool to fight rats)

Probly collects loads of crap in the bottom that then festers

Or things nest in it

Slight dredge but just popping back to say thanks for your input.

In the end we have sacked the builders who were sub contracted by the window firm, and the window firm are sending their in house guys to sort everything out on Friday. With any luck it will be done by the weekend.

On track vs circular - I have the macallister (or however you spell it) with makita guide rails for long cuts, and an upgraded blade. It is only a 48t erbauer blade (iirc) but worked very well for cutting birch ply kitchen doors etc.

No saws or even labels at my local lidl

Website says supposedly from the 28th but every chance it will be the Thursday deliveries

That bottom piece is really a joining piece. You should either get another of those pieces so you can direct the flow straight down, or your could replace it with a downpipe shoe: https://www.screwfix.com/p/floplast-round-downpipe-shoe-black-68mm/11456

I'd go with the first option and use a hole saw to cut a circle in the drain cover for the pipe (you want it fairly closely cut so that you don't get leaves finding their way in). You could replace it with one that's got a reinforced circular section ready for a cutout: https://www.toolstation.com/round-gully-grid/p71323

cheers - that’s really useful info!

Evolution have been pretty good IME, not for heavy trade use, got a regular 240v corded circular saw for cutting pallets and general rough work. They use an odd size of blade so don't expect to get one cheap or easily. But the stock blade is decent enough, lots of teeth good for reasonably decent work, tracks nice.

Would defo budget for two blades over whatever comes with whatever you choose. 1 with less teeth for rough work and just getting it done, and one with much small fine teeth for when your cutting finished/visible edges.

Proper track saw is a beautiful thing, but honestly for most DIYer an average circular saw with a £20-40 blade in good condition and a bit of experience and you'll be happy.

Ah that'll be how it happened, their regular guys can't do it, so they got someone who has maybe done smaller windows or doors before for them, but doesn't realise how to do it right with a big 2-4m span.

Having used a circular saw i know it's not for me for precision work and would much rather a nice track saw and cheap circular.
I've got to renovate a while house, inbuilt cupboards etc and do an apartment from first fix up so things will get good use.

Yours? You going to fix it? Do tell us how the wiring is...

I wish I'd bought track not circular.. that said I've got a lot more adept at being precise with the circular in the time I've owned it, even without a track. (I haven't done anything requiring super super precision.) Have contemplated a (universal?) track but never been fussed to figure out combatibility.

Given the cost of materials if you're doing anything significant the cost of a track saw gets eaten up fairly quickly.

I've got circular saws in full-size and mini cordless versions, and they stay in their boxes. I almost always prefer the track saw. It's easier (just line up two marks) and more accurate as you can clamp the tracks. Also the rubber edge on the track gives you a really smooth edge, and you can do angled cuts easily.

My LVT tiles have arrived.
Need to cut some while fitting, what's the budgetest option given 40k kitchen is 25% over budget?

I think I used a Stanley knife even though quick step didn't recommend it: https://youtu.be/P0vf_BMSiqY

I restored old-fashioned way my parent's roof with flat tiles : )

Hmm will give it a go with my carpet knife.

Ours is evocore though and much thicker than that video.

Can always ask the manufacturer or vendor. They should be able to advise.

Good knife, stack of fresh blades, maybe the carpet shape semi hook type for vinyl tiles. Big of sheet wood to cut into, good straight edge I guess.
Last year bought a 'milwaukee' folding knife. Was dubious to its quality as often tool brands hand off the basic hand tool type stuff to junk companies. Nope. This small folding knife is my go to for just about everything now. Its a mk1 or mk2 version, they are now on mk3. After a year of constant use, a lot of drops a lot of being stood on, there is zero play in it, it accidentally drops the blade out ZERO times unlike both my previous higher tier stanley items (one fixed, one retractable, the £20 retractable Stanley I have stabbed and sliced myself with so many times I chucked it in the metal recycling as its a danger that thing).
Milwaukee one handle isn't massive, but has a finger cut out in exactly the right spot for some force and for precision work, would recommend. Doesn't store blades though, newer mk3 does I think.

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When the installers were doing my LVT, they also used a heatgun and gently heated the tiles up before cutting them, to give them a bit more flex.

I'm stupendously lazy, is there a tape (flashing tape?) suitable for covering the joints in the plasterboards which make up the ceiling in my garage, which will cover the screws and the gap and I can then just paint over? I don't care that it would be visible under the paint.

Usually called scrim tape or joint tape.

Correct me if I am wrong but this is artex and likely to have asbestos in? Also if it’s cracked and opening up by a few mm that’s potentially dangerous?

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Anyone want to speculate what this is before I get the angle grinder out? Whatever the central pipe is seems to be fully buried in the lawn but I had no idea the plate was there until grass died from the summer heat!

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Base for a clothes line pole?