Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

Ah sorry, I think I was thinking you already had the fork.

i found some p2 lookie likie forks from an old carrera subway once by trawling gumtree and finding some in a pile of other random stuff sold by one of the guys in brixton with a literal pile of bikes in their front room

Sam the wheels guy? On railton? The pile has spilled out onto the pavement now.

the guy up near loughborough park? anyway the right vintage subway forks had canti studs and were 26er. drab grey though

the guy up near loughborough park? anyway the right vintage subway forks had canti studs and were 26er. drab grey though

Hmm he is relatively near LB Park but on the other side of the train tracks towards the Halfords/Brixton Hill. If there’s another like him in the area it’s news to me but I wouldn’t be surprised.

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Long shot, anyone know the spec of the rear thru axle for Boardman ADV 8.9 frame? Picked one up second hand but no axle.

I know it's 12x142 but think I need external width and thread pitch as well.

Thru axles are a pain

Could anyone please advise me what I need to replace these?

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The top one basically tells you on it.

yeah, I think I will go with these two - rear from Nukeproof and front from Prime - it just seems a tricky business taking into account four variables. The thread length is 1mm longer in each case by my measurement, but I'm hoping that won't matter

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It'll be reet, have a look at the Robert axle project if you're stuck, they seem to do most sizes.

SRAM GXP road crankset in GXP bottom bracket (it's a Prime one from Wiggle if that makes any difference). I was told not to install the wavy washer. And I've done the bolt as tight as my little arms can get it, but....

This can't be right, can it?!

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• 83F6ABAE-DE9F-4568-9304-4E01C0ADF10B.m4v

It's not, GXP cranks tighten onto the NDS bearing so don't need a wavey washer or preload device, you sure it's a GXP BB and it's not missing a reducer or something?

@zebra late reply but I removed the guide bit of this chain tensioner without any issues.

Thanks, I ended up removing it completely as well and it's perfect now!

what is the deal with installing an sram 12 cassette on road rim frames ?

say i am looking at this Ratio 12 speed thing, and need to install a sram AXS cassette on a road 130mm hub with a currently 11 speded shimano freehub. what hubs would allow this ?

Posted in CP Chat but probably better off in here...

I've got a '99 CAAD4 frame (the one in purpleen 🤤) that I'm planning on building into a 650b gravel jobber. Ideally, with external bb and a sub compact crankset.
But it's a Mtb, so road crank spindles wouldn't work? Are there any bb standards that would allow a longer spindle to be fitted to road cranks? Would that even work? Are there any Mtb cranksets that fit the bill that don't look too MTBy?
Is this just a wild goof trek and should I sack it off and just run it 1x (already have a 1x and a tracklocross thing in the works so more gears would be nice)?

Apologies for alllllll the questions. Any advice would be very VERY gratefully received.

My front disc brake is crap. Squeeky and very poor stopping power. It's been bled recently. I changed the pads but there was no improvement. I assume I've been too careless spraying silicone spray.
Will the new pads be knackered or can I clean it all up? They are the metal type pads not resin.

Will the new pads be knackered or can I clean it all up?

the only reliable success i've ever had with badly contaminated disk brakes is:

remove rotor, clean thoroughly with disc brake cleaner, clean with flap sandpaper disc on angle grinder, clean thoroughly with disc brake cleaner, clean calliper with DB cleaner, replace pads with new, reinstall rotor.

if you're prepared to go through these steps multiple times you can try and clean your pads by using all the tricks, hot water, sandpaper, DB cleaner, rinse repeat but every time the rotor gets contaminated I found you have to start the cleaning process again. So i will normally just go for new pads after decontaminating the rotor.

I have a pair of carbon soled mountain bike shoes which rattle against my pedals. There's a fair amount of noticeable play at the bottom of the pedal stroke. Anything I can do? Brand new cleats and I've tightened the spring tension in the pedals as far as it'll go.

If its for and aft then cleats pedals worn . No amount of tightening will remove the play.

Cleats shims are available.

Pretty sure it's vertically. I'll try shimming it out and see if that helps, only issue is there's not really any room before the cleat starts hitting the ground before the tread on the shoes.

As has been said, thoroughly clean the rotor and in all honesty just save yourself the time and bin the pads, put fresh ones in. Is the caliper properly aligned? Do that, then bed the new pads in

How did this happen?/ what would LFGSS do?

I was riding in shoreham (great ride!) when I went to change the front cog with my Shimano double tap. This has been a little sticky for a year or so. A shop guy told me was just the age of the parts and wasn’t a lot I could do…

I was trying to keep the chain fairly central. Often the back cog wouldn’t move up when I hit the left hand shifter, but I found when I moved the back cogs shifter that would sometimes allow the front cog to finally move from the little to big.

However this time disaster struck. And as I did this the chain fell off, next I believe as my pedal leg drove round, part of the frame then snapped off the mech hanger. This I think then pushed the derailer into the back wheel and through the back wheel.

Questions. Is this frame written off? Any idea how I snapped the frame of my bike? Should I have replaced the shifter and derailer long ago?

Shout out to the kind man who gave me a lift to my car an hours walk away.

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It's only your mech hanger which is broken. It bolts onto the rear right dropout of the frame. You can normally find replacements if you do some Googling with your frame make and model.

There is no guarantee that it won't happen again though. Someone with more experience with these types of failures might be able to tell you what may have caused it.