Garages

I think I need to get my long level out and check how true the existing wall is - might surprise me and be pretty good, but given the drift over the years my concern is that it'll be pretty bendy and therefore a pain to attach straight things too.

Why is observing someone else's garage refurb so absorbing

Going well

1 Attachment

Oh balls

1 Attachment

The effort to get this much board and insulation up was out of all proportion to what was actually achieved, I think. That might be the Covid, mind.

The beams are very much not in line, parallel, or flat across their length - my ceiling is going to be wavy, but hey - it's a garage. I just want to seal it and get some insulation in there, flatness isn't a big requirement.

1 Attachment

Wonder if that insulation and boarding will be a bit of a condensation magnet?

Guess it’s not going to be that warm in there most of the time

I don’t really know, being honest- I’m putting insulation in because of vibes I suppose.

Behold a level of ghetto that will have the forums electricians biting through their electric screwdrivers

3 Attachments

Actually a DeLorean in there?

1 Attachment

I did something similar when I converted my garage. I added, after an electrician's advice, a fused 13a spur internally. What that means is the garage is isolated and will trip the 13a fuse rather than the main distribution board. Although I'm not sure a fused 13a will be sufficient for all the planned mains powered tool.

At the moment it’s a simple extension lead plugged into a socket- won’t take much load at all, but it’s temporary.

If it looks like becoming less temporary then I’d probably be best served by digging out the end of the armoured cable that runs under the road and connecting that back to the main CU. But that’s hassle I won’t engage with unless/until I have to.

I have yet to bother fully wiring my shed as all the tools I have been using have nowhere near troubled the 13A socket the extension lead is plugged into (mitre saw, pillar drill, track saw, belt sander etc - not all at once but usually singularly in combo with a shop vac, lights and battery chargers).

Shed is wired internally with 4 double sockets on a ring main (16A RCD), and two LED strip lights on their own 6A RCD. The CU "tail" then plugs into the extension lead when I want power.

But that’s hassle I won’t engage with unless/until I have to.

It's not as bad as you think. Mine is a spur off a RCD 16a ring rather than back to the consumer unit. This a allowed under regs but is frowned upon (apparently). The expense is in the BWIC; digging the reinstating the trench, buying the armoured cable, etc. I did the grunt work myself to save money.

In my situation the cable is there, under the road bed, but the riser it's jointed in has been sealed for fire regulation reasons (apparently).

Engaging with the managing agent about unsealing it, accessing the cable and then resealing it has been, erm, unproductive.

I don't want to cut into the riser without permission, which leaves getting access to the cable before it enters the building, by (I think) digging down to it in the flowerbed and hoping that there's enough of it to connect to.

I could then run an armoured cable down from my flat, as it's almost (but not quite) directly above the flowerbed where the cable crosses.

Chap is fitting the side hung doors as I type this - momentary heart attack when his paperwork said that they were 100mm too narrow, but the actual frame was the correct size.

Very exciting to see stuff actually happening that will mean the garages are dry and secure - the comparison between the doors going in and the doors coming out is comical.

Thought you were going with up and over?

Pics or it didn’t happen too…

Right hand garage- side opening.

Left hand garage- sectional up and over.

1 Attachment

This is exciting.

Indeed- work continues to happen outside

1 Attachment

I thought they had fixed their banner to the wall! Prime position to make the most of Dammit's influence

Doors are now hung, but they're 50:50 split, which isn't what I discussed with the sales man.

Checking the paperwork and it is what he put on the form, so I suspect I'm fucked on that one.

Annoying.

Still, they are nice doors

5 Attachments

They look great. What was the reason behind wanting 1/3 and 2/3 split originally?

I wanted the door that will be used all the time to be closer to a standard door in terms of width, with the door that would very seldom be opened providing the remainder.

Just thought it would be more user friendly that way.

Why, out of interest, did you pick a sectional for the other door not a pure roller?