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  • TV mounts.

    I've got an Invision HDTV-DXL cantilevered bracket and a 55" oled to wall mount.

    The supplied rawl plugs are just a no so I emailed Fischer fixings who recommended chem bolts whose promotional material states they are for external fire ladders. So maybe overkill.

    House is a 70's build with aircrete block walls having the consistency of ice-cream cones.

    What's the recommended fixing? Duopowers, turbo aircrete anchor ftp nylon, something else?

    Bolts max at m8 to fit through the mounting holes on the bracket.

    Any help gratefully appreciated

  • Yep seen these. Need a bigger size than that, m8 bolts are needed for the mount so was looking at

    DeWalt gasbeton
    Or
    Fischer turbo aircrete
    I know chem bolts would be strongest but that would be a seriously permanent installation in the house.

  • Presumably you'd then need less than 6cm of bit? I guess that's achievable and def enough depth for the rawl plug... Hmmm. Thanks for the thought, I might see if I can find one to offer up.

  • I think the gap with command strips would annoy me but looks like it might be the best bet. With the glue I'd just be worried about it not working and fucking up the new finish on my walls...

  • Patch repaired the putty and sealed the gaps around the wooden cills. Window Frames and wooden cills primed and painted with BIN then allcoat . Primed the masonry cill. Gotta fix the cracks in the render before priming and painting the masonry.

    Quite the journey. It’s good from far…but far from good up close.


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  • That looks fit. Need spherical shrubs, uplighters and a Macan to complete the look.

  • Batten it out, use packing pieces to make the battens plumb/level.
    Screw plasterboards to battens.

  • I know chem bolts would be strongest but that would be a seriously permanent installation in the house.

    Not necessarily, chemical fixings are pretty easy to remove with the liberal application of heat. It is basically plastic after all so melts easily.

  • Plasterboard the walls too?

  • Front door, into a stairwell (tenement flat).
    Got a few m2 of this nice fancy boi flooring.
    Flat door has been moved before at least once, over a hundred years ago, so floorboards of inside do go outside. Makes it fun to get a threshold system that works.

    The floor in the hallway has a massive fall across its width, 25 to 30mm so most door seals won't work.
    Carpet going inside ontop of thin ply and then underlay.
    My idea, ply and level the concrete to floorboard situation so that I can run a single piece of material across where the threshold would be. Run the rest of thr flooring at the same angle as the door originally was, so that is got a strong single piece for a perimeter (round over with a router, or maybe a brass stepper strip on concrete side).
    Route a smoke/fire seal strip into the front door all the way round, if it keeps smoke and fire in place it'll do something toward keeping my stinking neighbours weed stank out. Plane the door to get a consistent fit.
    Then either route some kind of magic carpet gripper strip onto the "threshold" indoor side, or maybe just regular grip strip will be enough, as the joint will be the equivalent of a carpet upto a skirting board.
    Trying to achieve a step down into flat onto carpet with no gap for dirt to collect between threshold and carpet, and as little draft as possible.


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  • Any reason not to use strips of plasterboard screwed to the underside of some joists to level out the effective heights a little?

  • Will the plasterboard screws be long enough to fit through two or more sheets?

  • 38mm screws, 9.5mm boards

  • Cool cheers! That Lorient company seems to be mostly commercial products, quite like using commercial stuff in a house, a lot of the stuff you find in the DIY shed stores + even the better builders merchants, the quality is pretty naff.
    Spent most of a day fitting two fire doors, those seals are quite fussy about gap, 3 to 3.5 mm, smaller than that door is crazy hard to open or shut, above that and they don't do anything

  • There are a few types, the very fine ones are more expensive and the wings break down where the door pinches them if it's a bit too tight. I spent a while fitting mine because my neighbours were smoking outside the door and it fixed the problem for me.

    I'm looking for the ones I've had before but the Lorient ones came up. I don't know if they are the ones to have but Ironmongery Direct are usually quite decent quality without being over the top.

  • Chances of being able to skim where the tiles have been removed or am I better just doing the whole wall?


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  • What's the intended finish?

  • Guessing painted on the right and a smaller splashback on the back wall. Unsure if there will be new cabinets going up or not.

  • Any recommendations for a battery powered light/lights to go by the bathroom mirror?
    Trying to avoid chasing cables or making holes in the ceiling.

  • No existing shaver point that you could replace with an illuminated mirror?

  • No. Sadly not.
    Stupidly we had a builder in doing a wall removal downstairs and I got him to fit an extractor in said bathroom, loads of holes in the ceiling and plenty of mess. I got him to run a blanked off lighting circuit to the ceiling somewhere near the sink while he was doing it, 'just in case'.

    Then a few months after that my partner decided that it was not bright enough by the mirror. So I can get a lighting circuit there with trunking, or chasing in. But not a shaving plug. If we go down the proper route I would like a socket to charge toothbrush and beard trimmer as well.

  • It's doable. Not by me, but I'm sure someone competent could do it.

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Home DIY

Posted by Avatar for hippy @hippy

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