Any question answered...

Good question. I think it's aluminium that's been chrome plated.

My thought was to use the jb Weld a bit like filet brazing around the outside and with a bit of a plug in the bottom of the chimney.

Worth saying that the bottom has a tacked in steel plate that is coming away from the bottom that needs to be fixed, so I can pull that off to get slightly better access to the inside.

It needs to be fairly strong given the user.

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A friend died recently and his daughter has asked if I can put together some kind of photo slideshow thing for a service. I'd assumed they were digitised when I said of course but naturally they're not.

She's asked if I can come up for a day and work on it instead of sending them out, as his wife is anxious about the whole thing.

What's a fast, decent quality, repeatable/consistent way to digitise a lot of prints of varying sizes and qualities?

I presume my obvious options are:

Photograph using a phone with a scanner app though this seems a bit fiddly and inconsistent.

Photograph with a camera on a tripod/arm facing down (I have lots of video equipment but am limited on stills to a Fuji X100V (so a fixed 35mm)

Buy a scanner. I'd rather not but I'd probably need to buy a small tripod rather than lug one of my big cine ones up so some expense is fine if there's something under 150 that would do a much better job than photos.

Anything else?

Second option seems like the best if you can avoid reflections from a glossy print. A 35mm lens should be fine for that!

Where is the highest load on a rear mech?

I'm trying to repair a carbon frame. The eyelet for the hanger has a crack right through one of the screw holes.
My plan is carbon epoxy it all up so the hanger is basically part of the frame and not removable.

Get someone to do it for you? Probably cheaper than buying a scanner, and they’ll have better kit
E.g. (I’ve never used them, they were just linked from a Which article)
https://www.digitizemedia.co.uk/

I've a mate who does this for a living. Camera on tripod, two light sources on the subject at 45 degrees to the subject, one either side. Camera should be far enough away from subject to prevent distortion due to the small lens. You will have to find a way of dealing with the different sizes of photographs, some big, some very small.

Of equal importance is that they all show the correct size on the slideshow - some messing about with pixels will be necessary, and that they are all recognised by the software reading them. Please be consistent with file naming, and, if possible, check with the place where the slideshow will be held, to confirm. I once had to sit through a friends cremation where half the photos were "File not recognised", and the others were blocky, pixelated parts of photos.

All the scanners you can buy at any price point will be sufficient, but again, some correction for size and pixels will be necessary. The camera option is quicker, but slightly more hassle. If you can borrow a camera with a zoom lens it will make it easier.

Good luck. It's a faff, but appreciated by everyone afterwards.

In outlook desktop app is there a way to keep an email in the inbox for a day then move it?

I'm signed up to news emails that I just want to glance at to see if it's worth reading. Ideally I'd like them to stay in my inbox for 2 days then move to a folder or delete.

I started with the idea of moving to a folder so it's easier to set up a rule to delete contents, but I can't work out how to move emails after a rolling time period. The closest I've found is rule for a set timeframe.

Cheers.

You can auto-archive the folder that they are in and it will clear them out according to the rules.

Right click on the folder
Properties
Auto Archive

Yeah. I was going to try variations of that, but still can't find a way to "keep latest" or "move older than x days".

The only thing I would add to the 'camera on a tripod' method is a darkroom easel - this will hold physical prints flat and in the same place, allowing a quicker turnover if you sort the prints into batches of the same size / orientation in advance.

Thanks @fredtc and @Bearlegged for confirming about what levers to use with cantis.

It's an option for me

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Two-pot front brake overheated on some long descents, loaded bike. Would you go from 160 to 180 rotors over changing caliper to four pot? Or should I just do both at once?

Basically, is the rotor size about heat dissipation? And four pot is for more power?

learn to send it

Rotor is usually cheaper and easier, both do both really, although I reckon you'll notice the power increase more with a bigger rotor. Obviously braking less is the answer though.

Hah. I certainly left the goal open for that, plus don’t drag your brakes, etc, etc.

Usually not a problem but plus camp gear and two-pots on 160s wasn’t cutting it.

Anything stopping you from going larger than 180?

My modesty?

I guess I could but I’d rather not. Hard tail xc bike with occasional bikepacking duties, so bigger than 180 would be overkill 90% of the time.

Basically I need someone to say something like two-pot 180 is equivalent of four-pot 160, etc. guess not so simple.

Good excuse to get some of those nice Hope 4 pot calipers

Aren't those permissions for all items in that folder? I want it to stay in my inbox for 2 days, then move/delete.

Dover-Calais - DFDS or Irish Ferries? Which should I book and why?

Ah, I thought you were moving it to a folder first.

If you want to leave it in your inbox then a bit of VBA to set an expiration date and Auto archive to remove expired emails seems to be the way

https://www.slipstick.com/outlook/rules/create-rule-to-expire-mail-after-a-number-of-days/

I usually book DFDS. Upgrade to the lounge for pastry's and quiet.

Surely the ability to brake safely outweighs the extra 30g or whatever your problem is with larger rotors

You’re right. It does. But it’s not a downhill bike.

I think 180 will do. If it’s not enough I’ll put a four-pot calliper on. Two-pot on a 200 just doesn’t make sense to me.