Electronic & Hydraulic Shifting (Di2, Ui2, customisations)

Does anyone know how to switch R9250 back to manual mode? Instructions are clear as SFAB

Process of elimination, double pressed the top shifter to set it to manual mode

Unless Di2 extension cables exist... Which would save me half an hour's work at the expense of risk of water ingress and other failures.
Edit - looks like Di2 extension cables don't exist although plenty of other people are looking for them too! I'll have to fish the junction box out.

You could use this, and another cable? Not very economical though, depending how much you value your time spent fishing

Update on my battery drain: Its neither of the cables I suspected. The RD and the Battery has worked perfectly on the TT bike so that doesnt need to be eliminated. Taking off the FD tonight, lets see.

Interesting - so it does exist! Thanks. Not exactly what I had envisaged but functionally the same thing.

I've got a longer cable fitted now so plenty of slack. It's a better solution as it eliminates a potential point of failure from water ingres. However this might be a useful thing to have for emergencies, and insulation tape could prevent any water getting in.

I run AXS on two mountain bikes and cabled XTR on another- the electriconic drivetrains need the battery charged every now and again, the cable setup needs regular fiddling.

For me, in muddy and dusty conditions with a lot of vibration and some fairly regular big bumps- AXS just works.

Running on Shimano cassette/chain/crank.

The only time I've had to do anything with di2 wires in 7 years, other than dismantling the bike for transport or, in this case, adding a longer wire to accommodate a new rear mech, was when I went over the bars, snapped a bar end shifter off and the broken wires shorted the battery.

Once I'd worked out what the issue was, I plugged in a battery pack to recharge and got going again.

People's experience varies, and I've used it mainly on road, so not in as harsh an environment as you, but I've found it really resilient and reliable. What goes wrong with the cables? Connections come loose? They seem really tight to me.

One big advantage of Di2 for me, which shimano has just designed out with their new version, is ability to charge on the go.

the cable setup needs regular fiddling

Because Shimano. My SRAM mechanical shifting never needs touching.

I am thinking of changing out the under-stem control unit for a bar end RS910. If I already have the wireless unit do I just need the RS910 and a Y cable?

Yes, or you can use the wireless thing as a 2-port connector and put it in line somewhere, saving the incredible cost of a shimano y-cable

No need for the y cable.

No need for y cable.
Wireless unit is on the left.

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I actually have 2x Y cables going spare, but the cost of post will probably outweigh the benefit.
Unless you want to pick them up in Ghent. :)

I’ve Ritchey bars. I know there is a hold near the end of the bar. If there are no holes by the shifters is it safe to drill the bars?

No need for holes near the shiters. The wires go through the holes at the end and run up to the shifters under the bar tape.

I have the wireless module in-line between battery and junction box, which saves a bit of faff at the front end. Never been any issues with it connecting to stuff from there.

Safe is relative. I've done both, and with the hole drilled near the ends of the drops there's a bit of a ridge of cable under the bar tape, but more peace of mind that they're not about to fall to bits.

Thanks, So the cable linking the shifters is under tape, then open, then under the tape again?

Tape the cable from the hole up to the shifter. You don’t need to tape the entire length, just enough to keep it in place. The bar tape then covers the entire cable.

The cable linking the shifters can go inside the bars, then out through the hole near the end of the drop and up, under the tape, to the shifter.

I had Cinelli Top 64 “heat treated” bar factory drilled. Mine and everyone else’s broke.
I’d never drill a bar.

Putting the wireless unit between the bar and the frame makes disassembling your front end a lot easier.

Because Dammit.

ftfy

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tsk3zAZyLaQ

I've got a Y cable you can have if you want to go that route?
Won't be able to post it till later in the week though

Dm’ed. cheers

I did mine like this with the wireless unit. I have an aero bar where the bartape only goes up until the bend so I didnt want the cable between the two shifters going across out in the open. No holes by the shifters for internal routing.

I drilled both ends of the handlebar, and I routed a cable through the entire bar to connect the wireless unit to the bar-end junction. The wireless unit is then connected to the left shifter.

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This is my setup on the gravel bike (hope it's not a repost)

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Are there electronics inside an external di2 battery ? I know that there are electronics inside the mounting unit, but I'm wondering if the battery itself is simply 2 cells connected in series or if it's something more complex.
I'd like to build a cheap internal battery with 18650 cells but I need the electronics to get it to work.