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• #24452
where’s that, looks great/awful
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• #24453
where’s that, looks great/awful
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• #24454
pls someone sell me a lyric/pike 29er fork or similar in 140 or 150 flavour
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• #24455
I have one with a Secus attached in 150.
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• #24457
I will however try a few more things, maybe one more headset shim. And rerouting the cables differently. Then I'll set it on fire.
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• #24459
Well, the Secus cost £285 plus fitting, in addition to the fork - but I'm aware that it's now an older model (August 2020) Lyrik, albeit an older Lyrik Ultimate.
In an ideal world I'd sell the fork with my XL RC295 frame, which has a Super Deluxe Ultimate shock that has the Meg-Neg aircan modification, with the Lyrik, for £1,500.
So! I might try to do that, first, then work out what I'd want for the fork on its own.
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• #24460
👍🏼
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• #24461
If you have been (for example) using a front wheel cradle on an uplift that bends the end of your mudguard you can get good results with a heat gun when you get back.
2 Attachments
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• #24462
Do Fox forks take ages to bed in? My fox 36 after over 20hrs of riding is nowhere near as plush off the top as my basic bitch RS Yari. And that's even though it definitely has more fore-aft flex...
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• #24463
Get the bushings burnished?
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• #24464
I hate pissing about with bikes that don't really get raced much... hopefully a week in the alps will make the stanchions do a similar thing!
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• #24465
Aren't they renowned for having the air spring full of grease? Drop the lowers and see how much they wasted in there?
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• #24466
I've replaced both headset bearings, added and removed shims, done up and undone cable guides and flushed them with silicone spray, sprayed all the linkages with lube... It's still clicking.
Next thing is to try removing and refitting the headset cups in case it's dirt somehow in between them and headtube.
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• #24467
Is the whole headset Hope or just the bearings? Some companies can have funny dimensions for the cups which can mean another brand's bearings sit on the flats rather than the chamfer.
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• #24468
It's a Hope headset, now with replacement bearings but they're the correct spec. The click started with the original Hope bearings and hasn't gone away, so it's not that.
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• #24469
cheers that sounds like an easy check
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• #24470
Can you put the fork on a different frame and test that? I'm just wondering if it's the crown/steerer.
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• #24471
I'm selling my DHX shock on eBay at the moment, chap just asked what my buy-it-now price would be. Ebay tells me that the average selling price for one of these is £375, but I don't know how accurate that is. What should I say?
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• #24472
And that's even though it definitely has more fore-aft flex.
If it's flexing it will bind in the bushings, making it feel sticky and less plush.
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• #24473
Ebay tells me that the average selling price for one of these is £375
They retail at what, £600-£700? Yours has how many hours on it? If it's not many, and way below the service interval (and it sounds like its not many) I'd be asking for £450 -£500.
I would of course qualify that with any interested buyer though.
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• #24474
It was on my Cotic until recently, click free (but a different headset) and I've ridden it once click free on the Geometron. I've taken the wheel out, stood on the bars and wrenched the lowers about and there's no creak, so I'm pretty sure it's not the CSU - or I'm not strong enough 🤷🏼♂️
Weirdly, I managed to make it click with the bike upside down on bars and saddle, and pushing on the downtube, so pressure going through the headset but not the fork
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• #24475
Sure there's not a crack in the frame somewhere? Does it click if you push on just one side of the bars? or only both together?
No, but I just ignored it. The bike was (apart from my bottle cage bolts coming loose on the last day) faultless. It’s also hugely confidence inspiring and very fast. On the tunnel back to the UK now, wishing I could have stayed longer.