Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

https://www.lfgss.com/comments/16598743/

P2M gravel cranks currently in a MegaExo BB. Could I replace with a Shimano BB or do they differ some how?

ie.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KYNLQkIlzJQ

EDIT: "Due to customer demand the set was developed for the Shimano Hollowtech II buttom bracket standard"

No idea why it has a MegaExo then. I guess it was the only thing in stock when I got the cranks.

All the mega exo break quickly have found. Replaced two today alone. If its 24mm ht2 standard chainset then you can use a ht2 road bb and will work without spacers on the fsa crank. Fit without chain and as you come up to torque spec on the single bolt, just keep spinning it between efforts, see that it still spins freely and without a big increase in drag. I tend to grease the inside of bb thread so the bolt goes in nice, and also give chainset a sideways tap with mallet to make sure it's not got any side to side movements. Also check removal cap is tight, replaced so bloody many gx caps (think they are now sold out till 2024 as so many have fallen off worldwide)

Thanks. I've bought a Shimano BB for it. I normally torque stuff in steps so will try and remember to spin between each though not had issues before. No idea if it has spacers on it currently but is there a reason not to use them with the Shimano rather than FSA? Are they different widths or something? Always grease threads. I don't tap the cranks I don't think but I do tend to retighten after a ride or two just to be safe.

Install as it was, if there's too many spacers it won't spin anyways once is tight.

Following on from my canti/ brake lever comparability question. Are there flat bar levers that will work with both v brake and cantis?

I have these tektro levers but can't get any info from search if they would work.

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I've got water stuck in my seat stays. I can hear it sloshing around when I rotate the bike. The only way in I can see is through the seatstay bridge. I've managed to get a dribble of water to exit the frame but there's still plenty more sloshing around. Any clever suggestions to get it out?

There's a Tektro model which has an adjustable cam where the cable end slots in. I think they're called "Eclipse".

edit: manual here: file:///home/chronos/u-ed8add51f8893159d4b37f3e67cf24cc6d898684/MyFiles/Downloads/F_20150915102425Mq5EKP.PDF

Put the frame in a bathtub full of rice

Or try heating it gently to steam the moisture out? Guessing a blowtorch might be a bit aggressive on the paintwork...
Are you in a position to strip the frame down and leave it somewhere warm for a few days?

Are you in a position to strip the frame down and leave it somewhere warm for a few days?

This has been my approach for the last few days, but apparently 30C is not enough to provide any significant amount of evaporation.

Have you removed the BB?

yeah, the water is in the seatstays. The seat tube/stay junction is sealed, and at the dropouts obviously, so only exit is through the seat stay, seat stay bridge, then through the mudguard mount.

The good news is the frame is titanium, so other than a bit of weight it's not posing a massive issue.

I've got water stuck in my seat stays. I can hear it sloshing around when I rotate the bike. The only way in I can see is through the seatstay bridge. I've managed to get a dribble of water to exit the frame but there's still plenty more sloshing around. Any clever suggestions to get it out?

Pull a vacuum in the frame, using something like a wet and dry vacuum cleaner

SRAM apex 1 hydro brake loosing fluid at the lever - haven't used it for ages, it's been sitting in the shed for 18 months.
Can I rebuild these with (presumably) new seals?

Have a look at the bladder, maybe it's damaged or out of place.

Are there flat bar levers that will work with both v brake and cantis?

As @Jon. says, there is the Tektro lever but I've found them rather poor. Something's just not right with the leverage so they don't feel very good with either.

Drill your own breathers?

Don't fancy that on a skinny titanium tube. Will see if Henry is up to the job.

Dia Compe DP7 Plus - available from SJS

https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/brake-levers/dia-compe-dp7-disc-v-brake-levers-black-silver/

You might note that on the questions and answers SJS have said they don't work with cantism, but my experience and the Dia Compe website says differently.

Hey, this is a bearing seal, it isnt there to keep the crank spindle in place

I've just won a Shimano alfine di2 rear wheel, but don't have any of the gubbins to change gear or power it. Does anyone know the kit I'd need to get it functioning on a bike, with external routing, I'm thinking I'd need a battery, gear shifter, a junction box? and cables to connect them to the rear wheel, is there anything else I'd need.
Thanks

you need:

Shifters
Junction box
SD50 cables
Motor unit
Battery
External batt
Batt charger

It is. Most BBs don't have them, and even then only in done lengths, but it's meant to be there.

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So of that I've already got

Batt charger
Motor unit

you need:

Shifters (this'll be one of the thumbshifting ones)
Junction box (any particular one, or are they all the same)
SD50 cables
Battery (what's the difference between this and the external battery?)
External batt

you dont need them on technically, but they are just dust covers. They dont hold the spindle in place

Shifters (this'll be one of the thumbshifting ones)

https://www.sigmasports.com/item/Shimano/SW-R600-Climbing-Shifter-Switch-For-Drop-Bar-Right-Hand/3B97?

For shifting you can also use XT Di2

Junction box (any particular one, or are they all the same)

https://www.bikeparts.co.uk/products/shimano-sm-ew90-a-e-tube-di2-junction-a-3-port?

If you want to be able to see the gear you are in you can use the Alfine or XT/XTR Di2 one.

SD50 cables

1 short cable from shifter to junctionbox at stem/handlebar
1 long cable from junction box A (stem) to junction box B (https://www.sigmasports.com/item/Shimano/SM-JC41-Di2-Internal-Cable-Junction/WI9)
1 cable from junction box B to battery (length depends on where the batt will go)
1 cable from junction box B to alfine motor unit

Battery (what's the difference between this and the external battery?)

This is the external battery: https://www.probikekit.co.uk/cycling-electronic-components/shimano-di2-sm-btr1-battery/10781871.html?

It comes in 2 or 3 mount options depending where you want to mount on the frame; https://www.wiggle.co.uk/shimano-bm-dn100-battery-mount?