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Are hardwood tops more resistant to rot? Probably gonna have to replace my worktop around my sink at some point as it's not in a good way, exacerbated by the fact it's cut to close to the Belfast sink with nothing to stop drops other than some manky silicon.
Polygon-
I wouldn't ever recommend wood work tops around a sink.
If you must do it:
- Use a tropical hardwood such as iroko as it is more rot resistant than oak; be warned it's also much harder, heavier and prone to burning when cut with power tools.
- Have a sink that sits ON TOP of the worksurface (realise this is probably too late for you)
- If having a Belfast type sink have a good lip all the way round the sink and cut a drip into the underside.
- Seal all endgrain with a penetrating finish and multiple coats such as Rubio Monocoat (natural)
- Use a tropical hardwood such as iroko as it is more rot resistant than oak; be warned it's also much harder, heavier and prone to burning when cut with power tools.
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Totally depends on how it was installed, wood was cut and endgrain sealed, and how much maintenance has been done to the wood.
I've done several over the years, underslung sink (stainless is a lot easier to seal and manage than ceramic types), attached to underside of a perfectly routed out hole in the worktop. Sanded to almost glass level smoothness on the bottom where it will contact the sink, the top and the endgrain has to be ridiculously smooth. Then treat with whatever your chemical of choice and oil it, keep oiling it for around 6 months every few weeks without fail.
Last year I redid ours (had some deep cuts and a burn from a chemical spill), redid with tongue oil (not great, hard to work with, takes days to dry between coats and doesn't give much protection at all, but the colour is spot on), then smooth it all up again and coat in Osmo clear/ wax oil type protection. Been 6 months since I did that and maybe just about thinking about another coat of Osmo.
Sink wood area has a hard life, we don't have a dishwasher so area is in constant use, its a main sink and a small side sink with wood surface running between the two (in hindsight I might have just left it as one giant hole). It developed a crack in the first month of use (5 years+ ago) due to the oak being very thin here, handling and TBH I think I did stand on this part when doing something with the ceiling, filled and then been fine ever since. We have no staining, no mould anywhere never have, and no deterioration in any way.
Up until last years refresh, so between 6 months old and about 4 -5 years, if I gave it one quick wire wool job and a cotton swab of oil in a year, it would have been a busy year.
Where most folk go wrong is the relationship between the sink itself and the wood, too much gap, no enough gap, drip bead, no drip bead, use of silicon, not use of silicone, but mostly lack of surface finishing and treatment of the exposed end grain, every sink I've seen fitted in other houses this area has been rough and with many small defects which lets water gather there, or get inside the wood easily leading to at the least mould within 6-24 months of use.
Bobbo
BrickMan
Do you have access to restaurant /industrial supply places that do hardwood tops? We have a John Boos top in our kitchen but they're cheap enough to use for utility too, depending on budget.