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• #36852
What are Ryobi tools like? I've got a Dewalt drill/driver but a lot of the bare Ryobi stuff comes up very cheap on offers every so often so wondering whether to get that for stuff I don't use as much.
Also, anyone any experience of the battery adapters? https://www.amazon.co.uk/Badaptor-Dew-RYO-Dewalt-Battery-Adapter/dp/B07RXW5KFP
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• #36853
The ratcheting bit change on the festool routers is fucking dreamy tho.
I have to admit I always got on well with both the old and new Makita 1/2 routers tho. -
• #36854
I have a few Ryobi "one" tools. Seem fine for general DIY / gardening and as you say they are often discounted. No experience with the battery adapters though.
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• #36855
This loft conversion just keeps on giving...
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• #36856
Is that a structural floor board?
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• #36857
I believe that is the technical term. I mean how heavy is half a chimney stack anyway.
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• #36858
Sure it's only supporting the 5 bricks that are falling away, I'm sure it's fine...
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• #36859
Seriously though, I guess I am left trying to find someone to put a 4m long rsj in that runs from the outer wall to the spine wall, or, less attractivly, removing a few courses and bolting some gallows brackets to the wall (with appropriate party wall sign off etc.)?
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• #36860
I've heard gallows brackets are no longer allowed but that's from a builder not a reliable source :)
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• #36861
Was looking at second hand Festool
Probably on the right track here as you know it will keep it's value.
See if you can get hands on with the DeWalt. My experience of most routers is that they're noisy, vibrate a lot, nasty plunge locking systems and inaccurate/drifting depth settings.
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• #36862
The more I read, the less convinced I am by that option.
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• #36863
I would suggest it is worth paying a bit of a premium for the brushless models, as Techtronic filter down improvements from their Pro brands.
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• #36864
We have something similar… It’s an endless battle against the British climate keeping it presentable.
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• #36865
Toucan Tools is just up the road so I’m gonna go have a play. The plunge lock actually looks good, depth stop not so much.
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• #36866
Probably aimed at tradesmen cutting worktops with jigs then :)
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• #36867
Whaaat? Was the chimney breast removed in the room below and they just propped up the remainder?
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• #36868
Yep.
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• #36869
On the other hand, brushes can be replaced (granted that's probably not relevant here).
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• #36870
gallows brackets
Again, very anecdotal, but I'd heard similar, but that it depends on whether it's a shared stack with a neighbour on the other side.
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• #36871
With shared being a no?
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• #36872
I think so. But it was a while ago.
I think the takeaway is it's not as simple as it used to be and checking with an expert is needed.
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• #36873
After a lot of reading, throwing money at an expert has become the preferred option. Would have been nice to find this before we had the roof redone. I guess at least the room below still needs a bunch of work and letting them just punch a hole through the ceiling to get a beam up there might make things a bit cheaper.
Edit: preferred option after burning the house down
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• #36874
Cheers. To be honest if I go with the ryobi stuff it's because it's cheap for occasional use. Anything I want a bit more quality with I will probably get DeWalt stuff.
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• #36875
So ‘reverse kerfing’ is a thing according to guitar makers…
I did a a couple of tests with 15mm and 16mm kerf depths - 16mm retains 2 layers of ply, is more willing to conform and snaps at around double the required curve.
I will template the curve (minus air gap and board thickness) and screw into it from the reverse, fill the kerfs with a 2 part filler and see if I can get it to hold its shape. This is below the waterline on a boat in case anyone is wondering why I can’t screw into the steel.
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You could build something in block work and then render it
Maybe because I've been in Puglia the last week but I've been thinking of doing something like this for outside (next summer)