Home DIY

I have a faced plywood which I need to bend where the inside of the curved piece will be visible.

Can I cut kerfs and bend in the opposite direction, then perhaps fill the gaps with a 2 part epoxy filler? I would rather not have to build a box to steam.

approx. 75cm length and the curve is from a circle with maybe 3m radius, so not too much of a bend.

Will Dulux trade vinyl silk work acceptably well on pine shelving or is that a waste of time? Shelving for models/ornaments etc so low traffic but I worry it will easily scratch and peel.

After being a member of various 'traditional house restoration' type of sites and seeing the love for Linseed Oil paint, thought I'd try it on the Sunray door. I wasn't confident enough to try it myself (probs the wrong place for this given its the DIY thread) so have a paid a local dude to do it. Needs two more coats I reckon and is slow to dry but coming along OK. Used Brouns.
Still need to point round the door and fix the bricks but thought I'd get the door sealed up first.

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second round of paint spraying today, here’s some second coats that have just gone on (bar the ceiling, mist + first coat only)

one thing that i’d say is a must with the sprayers, is that if you’re using a thick paint (leyland trade hardwearing for me) you really need to water it down a good 15% or so - spent ages this morning stopping and starting due to the nozzle not handling the viscosity and needing to be taken off, cleaner, re-primed every two to five mins.

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Veneer bonded to the the inside face maybe?

Ply doesn't steam well at all, even WBP or marine ply will start to delaminate after being in a steam oven.

Kerf bending is always an option but it will never look right if the kerfs are visible even if you spend ages filling and sanding it.

What is the ply faced with? Can you get the veneer without the ply? If so bent lamination (basically making your own ply from thin strips of timber in the shape you need) will probably be the way to go.

I've never heard of putting AstroTurf onto a concrete base.

It's normally type 1 sub base whacker plated down until level, then grano dust on top that gets brushed then whacked and swept then whacked again until it's billiard table smooth.

it's phelonic faced birch (Riga Heksa).

The face will be the interior of a cupboard which houses a diesel heater, so it needs to be neat rather than perfect, the outside of the curve will not be visible at all, which why I was curious if I could kerf and bend the 'wrong' way and then fill the gaps,

Worst case scenario I can use a normal bit of ply and coat with epoxy paint.

Nice.

Yep - when spraying anything other than from a can you need to adjust the media based on the equipment and conditions.

Yeah if starting from dirt, but fucked if I'm smashing up and carrying out more concrete through my house (no access). A cursory Google suggest it's ok, but obviously needs to drain hence the screed and Ako.

In a way you are ending up with a veneer attached to some ply strips. The risk is when you bend it part of the veneer decides to do all the bending and snaps. You would probably still need to form it around something to stop that happening.

A chemical pedant suggests '(urea-) phenolic'.

Sounds like you've only seen it done properly! I can assure you a simple concrete base is a luxury option in the back gardens of SW London. Hauling a whacker into the garden down the stairs puts people off using them.

Often drainage is sorted by drilling some holes through the base.

Linseed oil paint fascinates me but I've not taken the plunge yet. I've mixed it from scratch for artists oil paints but I can't get my head around the drying times, maybe it just dries a lot quicker than the stuff I've made in the past.

I understand the desire to use burnt sand and linseed oil and lots of other traditional materials but I've got examples of work dating back 15 years that shows no signs of failing and it's modern flexible fibre fillers with oil based exterior paint systems so I'm wondering just how much longer the traditional stuff is expected to last.

Such a cool door.

Yeah possibly pre-cast edgings and leveling compound + drainage holes would be the way to go, although probably not considerably less effort. The surface is rough as, so it needs leveling with something, figured using grano kills two birds with one stone.

I've only ever done it properly.

First one I did was part of a renovation in Earlsfield. We did it properly including lugging the whackerplate through the house.

It very nearly went horribly wrong because the labourer thought he could make it easier on his back by turning the whacker plate on and driving it through the house over the freshly laid French oak herringbone parquet. Fortunately he couldn't get it started in the time it took us to realise what was going on and (obviously doing so in a very respectful way) explain to him that a couple of bits of correx wouldnt offer that much protection.

anyone reccommend high BTU (6000+, ideally more) rads that mount vertically?

We have a DQ Cove. Looks like they go up to 6000. Heavy as fuck

https://dqheating.com/collections/designer-collection-mild-steel/cove/

You’ll not get much with what your wanting for that. High BTU rads usually need panels but there is verticals out there that have high KW output.

They will also be heavy as fuck too, so make sure they are going on a decent wall too.

and get feet for them!

are there panelled rads that mount vertically?

walls are fine as everything is solid edwardian brick

You might have found that old school routers or lower tier model from each brand doesn't have load control. So unless its on max setting, you'll find it bogs and then stalls (or at least slows enough your chip size grows out of control and it trashes your work).
Anything over 1200w with load control from a decent brand is gonna be ok. Festool, dewalt and blue bosch are the usual suspects

Think I've narrowed it down - Dewalt DWE625KT seems like a good option.

Trend and Dewalt appear to be exactly the same machine, but I prefer the yellow and keeping £50 in my pocket. Also the Dewalt storage case is way nicer.

Was looking at second hand Festool but as I'm not a cabinet maker or carpenter in the traditional sense I imagine it'd be wasted on me.