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  • I did EXACTLY that putting in a new chase when working for Fiddy years ago (things I've learned recently make it less surprising that it was even possible for me to do). Except, this one was wired up. Bang, flash, two perfect chunks taken off the edge of the bolster and black charring. Thank fuck for RCDs. I just felt like all the bones in my hand separated for a split second, like touching a rural electric fence, but more ouchy.

    Not exactly sure how it was fixed as the carpenter ushered me off site before the angry electrician came back from lunch/the pub.

    Do you have access to replace that whole section of the ring, from socket to socket?

  • Do you have access to replace that whole section of the ring, from socket to socket?

    I do, but would have to remove a bunch of cladding. So fuck that noise.

    Also - Ouch. Electricity terrifies me.

  • I found this when looking at extending a ring main using wagos, I imagine the theory can be extended to terminal blocks.

    Yes, but a few points need to be observed to make sure it complies with BS7671 IET 17th Edition.
    Firstly, the terminals must be installed in a Wagobox (when breaking into existing ring wiring). This needs to be UK sourced to ensure you get ones that are stamped with [MF], meaning that it's classed as BS 5733 Maintenance Free box.
    To comply with the IET regulations, each Wagobox is limited to 50Amps in total. The compatible terminals, 773-10x(solid) and 222 (lever), are also derated to 20Amps (I prefer 221 as they're normally rated to 32Amps).
    Therefore, for a regular 32Amp ring main, you will need to use two Wagoboxes - one at the start and one at the end of the extension. As the load from any socket is shared in both directions of the ring (albeit unevenly), the derated 20Amp terminals are sufficient.

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