Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

I wonder if I can get a 46T with the same ABS 110bcd to replace her 48T?

You can go 30t inner on absolute black oval rings and 110bcd on most cranksets.

We don't 'do' oval rings in the household. How very dare you! :P

Triple then

BB on the left seems to have some something stuck on the axle? Any ideas how to remove it?

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It's meant to be there, a stop to keep the crankset where it's meant to be.

Doh! Thanks snotty.

Damn, I thought the click had gone away. It wasn't there for the first half of the ride. So I was like "yes, it was the loose derailler hanger" but then it came back, so now I'm like "fuck, maybe the hanger worked itself loose again, but threadlock? That's not good. Or maybe it's something else. Fuck".

So, err, yeah, I need to check the hanger and if it's not loose then fuck it, I'm out of ideas. I'll ride it until it needs a new cassette.

It could be the next biggest cog is slightly piss, causing the chain to be closer to cog 4 at a point in the rotation. It's hard to tell but it definitely looks like the chain is closer to cog 3 at points in the rotation. If I can be arsed I might take the cassette off and sit the bits down on something flat for a better look.

I assume you've had this in a stand and had a look at the offending sprocket while turning the pedals over?
Only clicks when riding?

Which thru axle can I use in a 3t strada fork (3t fundi)?

3t sell a syntace x12 road 100 axle that fits both the strada + exploro.

Does that mean any x12 road front axle works? Specialized seems to use the same specs and are cheaper, do they work?

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It's the chamfer that's the special bit to look for

Yes I guess so (+ thread pitch m12x1.0) but they have various lengths 124/118mm to 114mm...

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I don't have a workstand. I'm going to stick it on the turbo later and see if it happens again then see if I can spot where the cog/chain seems closer to the neighbouring one. Then I'll hit it with a hammer.

I'm an idiot. It's DD turbo. Different cassette.

Anyway, if cables have been rubbed through and you can see the outer sheath wires, would you swap them? Nothing broken and nothing sticking out but I wonder if they could rust through and then impede shifting a bit? I know there's an inner tube as well but I'm tempted to just get them swapped out before something goes south.

All,

Hope you can help.

I may be taking possession of a pair of Mavic Cosmics. This model has an alu rim with a carbon deep section fairing. The rear is slightly damaged whereby the fairing is starting to come away from the rim (or should I say beneath the rim, whatever the fairing attaches to).

Is this easily repairable? Is it worth buying them or is it a bit risky?

Thanks.

Replace. The plastic sheath holds the longitudinal gear cable casing strands in alignment. Without the plastic sheath’s restraint all the way round, you get excessive deflection and bad gear changes.

Good, that's what I'd told her but no one listens to me. Good to have confirmation. :)

Is it worth buying them or is it a bit risky?

That depends on the cost. I'd question spending money on old alu rims regardless but if they're also possibly broken then these better be SUPER CHEAP before I'd throw money at them.

Avoid

Yeah, avoid, they're shit anyway.

Hello guys! was riding home from work today and all of a sudden heard a loud CLANK coming from my back wheel...turns out one of the spokes popped (cleanly?) out of the wheel and was just hanging there...needless to say as the wheel was spinning around untrue so I just dismounted and walked it home...but question I have is the following - is this fixable by myself? Do I need a new spoke, or can it be re-inserted? If this is an LBS job, what am I looking at price wise? I can remove casette and tub myself to keep costs down, but would obvs prefer to do just do it myself. sorry for the barrage of questions, and thanks in advance for your answers!

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Looks like it's just the nipple that's fucked, so hopefully no need to remove the spoke. Take your tyre and rim tape off, shake out the nipple nubbin, remove the old nipple nubbin, whack a new nipple on and if the wheel was built well then you can probably tension it until it sounds the same as the others and it'll be pretty true assuming the rim hasn't fucked itself.

@snottyotter thank you legend! going to try and get a hold of a new nipple and see if I can fix it myself. I suppose my sign that it'll have "worked" is that the wheel runs true again, no? Any specific tools I need or should this be doable with an adjustable wrench?