Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

I’m lucky it caught me on a good day, otherwise I’d have chucked out the lot. Never had an issue with PT or this press before, so I’m blaming the cheapo headset.

Mechanics, can I get any kind of 90 degree banjo on the lever end of a Shimano hydraulic brake? A bit like you can get with Magura.

Not officially, jagwire make some aftermarket stuff but I've never seen what you're after. What's the threading on the magura ones? They're both mineral oil, maybe you can smush them together.

Made me laugh when I read your post - agreed probably soft cheapo cups.
Would have annoyed the shit out of me

magura use m8x1.0 thread for the shroud / compression nut or whatever it's called in (some of) their levers. possible that a magura banjo would work? don't know if there are other major differences with the hose or something that would prevent that.

I think it's different, definitely looks quite different. I could, in theory, use magura levers and shimano calipers, but for this purpose that's not really worthwhile.

There's been a click on a single cog on a relatively new cassette. Cleaned and couldn't see any burrs or anything.

Cleaning the thru axle and back end while the wheel was off and I noticed the changeable hanger mount was loose. Similar to the Kinesis used to do. Hopefully it was that but if not, gonna check hanger straightness. Then I'm pretty much out of ideas.

There's nothing like a single tooth out of whack? I've seen that before

That's the obvious answer and I did a pretty thorough examination of the cog in question. I couldn't see anything obvious, no bends, no weird wear marks, no notches in the teeth, no burrs, nothing. Maybe it's something tiny but the click is annoying.

Sound silly but is the cassette 100% on correctly? I’ve seen one with the smallest cog not properly fitted but the long lock ring engaged, although just barely.

Yeah, I've been through the loose cassette thing. I once had a cassette come loose in Scotland because it was tightened up on an angle against a burred freehub body so I'm very anal when it comes to making sure the cogs are all straight and the lockring is straight before fully tightening it.

Which sprocket is it out of interest. Is it a 1x setup? Happening on both/all of the front rings?

I stupidly said I'd adjust and fix my dad's bike. The gearing cable inside the the sti shifter has completely frayed and the cable head seems to have come off. A few of the cables are wound around the mechanism, the gear cable head is missing and the shifters won't actually shift anymore. Been trying to pull out all the cables, but they're tangled and wrapped around. looks to me as if the whole shifter needs taken apart and addressed. I'm tempted to take it to local bike shop as now I'm in the realms of speculation, new bar tape, re taping said bar tape.
Any advice other than getting a whole new shifter?

I've had this happen to me on relatively new shifters (R8000) - I must just shift a lot and neglect to replace the cables.
Does the shifter downshift, as-in release all tension back to the starting point? If so I'd do that then poke around with a round kebab skewer or something to try and free what's inside.

dismantle the shifter as much as you can. My wife's 6800 shifters do this every 6 months or so. I take the hood fully off, then there's two panels you can remove with small screws and this makes the access much easier. Still a pain but it's doable. No idea what shifters you have though
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MWDuQRXiGO4

I’ve got a surly midnight special with a gusset headset, currently I’ve got the standard steel fork on it, but I’ve just bought a carbon 1/8 1/5 fork to put on it.

In my head that should just mean a new crown race ? Or at worst a new lower headset. But when I look at the details there’s no reference to 1/5 obviously that would be to easy, what da fuck does all this bollocks mean?

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EC = external cup
44 = inside diameter of the headtube
40,30 = inside diameter of the bearing. 40 for 1-1/2", 30 for 1-1/8"
So presumably ec44/40,30 is a 1-1/2" lower cup to fit a 1-1/8" steerer so yes you would just need a new crown race, I think
You don't normally see both diameters on one option

Arh thanks, that does make some sense now.

It's the 4th largest on a 2x setup that has been run the same way without issues. I need to check it now I've tightened the hanger mount up. That's almost certainly the cause and if it isn't I'll just turn the headphones up.

I thought 34T was the lowest you could go on 110 BCD so how to FSA 386 Gossamer cranks run 48/32 on a 110 BCD?

Presumably there's a trick to it and it's going to need special chainrings?

https://mybikeshop.com/products/fsa-steel-chainring-10-11-speed-4-bolt-110-bcd-32t-black.html#description_toggle

Is it just that their rings have the bolts closer to the teeth? I thought someone else had done that but the lowest was still 33T before bolts fouled the teeth?

I always thought that too.
Could it be that since the move to a symmetric 4-arm spider, it's possible to orientate the chainring bolt holes so they sit under the teeth rather than the grooves, so don't foul the chain rollers (which are usually wider than the plates)?

"this road bike chainring has FSA's ABS (Asymmetrical Bolt Spacing) design. This design optimises your pedalling effort. This 4x110mm bolt pattern means this chainring only fits FSA cranksets with this FSA-specific bolt pattern."

That makes sense.

The bit about "optimises your pedalling effort" is bullshit because they're still round rings, they've just put the bolts under the teeth to get smaller rings onto 110 bcd.