Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

I'd completely unlace it and start from scratch.

hi, if I read it correctly, you wanna change one spoke, wind the one spoke up to tension and true it and then repeat for the other spokes? better you change all spokes at once and if you had alu nipples before, change them to brass too. then you start retensioning the whole wheel and then true it.

If you're rebuilding the wheel completely, slowly untension the spokes, rebuild the wheel, and then bring the spokes up to tension. If you're just replacing the broken spoke, bung the new spoke it, tension it, and then check the tension of all the spokes to make sure they haven't been knocked out of whack when the spoke broke.

I bought a second hand rear wheel and have had continual problems with brake rub and broken spokes despite having it repaired 3 or 4 times.

Last night the hub gave way while out on a ride and decided to bite the bullet and replace it.

Other than spoke count what other compatibility issues do I need to consider before buying a new Hub?

Is it not better to just replace the whole wheel at this point?

The Rim and spokes are good quality, but IDK if it would be a false economy to reuse them rather than buying a whole new wheel.

I think I’d replace the hub and spokes def, and only keep the rim if it’s in great condition / expensive / rare or something.

Its an Enve rim brake - so yes of all the above.

New spokes for sure if you've been breaking them, plus you'll probably need a different length with a new hub anyway.

Hi All
I'm swapping a hub over - the measurements from Edd I get are:

Hub Shimano Deore XT FH-M756L, rear Rim Mavic XM319 (2014) Spokes 32
Crosses 3 Spoke length left 289.7 mm Spoke length right 288.5 mm

I have 290mm spokes already - will I get away with reusing them?

290 is what you'd buy if the calc said 289.7, but for the 288.5 you'll want 288mm spokes.

If it was mine for me and I didn't have 288s knocking about I'd build it up and see, probably OK, if it was for someone else I'd get some 288 in.

this is the cheapo bodge answer i'm looking for

If it works. If your over-long spokes bottom out in the nipples before you reach full tension, you've wasted a load of time where you could have just spent £10 getting the right spokes

To be honest I'll probably fuck it up and end up paying a shop to do it for me

Could use nipple washers to take up that extra couple of mm

Thread the nipples you're using on the spokes you're using until they bottom out, if you get a mm or 2 poking out the top you're probably fine, if you don't then do it properly.

I have an ethirteen trs r rear hub 28h that is boost 148 width - do I need to use a different spoke calculator that allows me to enter the width. Normally I'd use https://leonard.io/edd/ but that hub isn't in the database.
I haven't bought rim or spokes for this and basically just want to build up something as cheaply as possible, so if anyone has something 28h lying around that would be vaguely suitable (even better one of the ethirteen rims that CRC/wiggle tantalizingly list for a tenner but are perpetually out of stock!) Thanks!

do I need to use a different spoke calculator that allows me to enter the width

No, the OLN is not relevant to spoke calculations. You can enter your own dimensions in leonard, as in any other calculator.

Rat-race have serviced the hub to get it working again but it needs replacing.

Anyone know why Shimano stopped making the FH9000 in a 24h and any idea where I might find one?

https://bike.shimano.com/en-US/product/component/duraace-9000/FH-9000.html

You can enter your own dimensions in leonard, as in any other calculator.

Tester says can, I’d say should.

Trusting the dimensions that are in spke calc databases is a good way to find yourself with a collection of spokes that don’t fit.

Tester says can, I’d say should.

I've said should many times before🙂

thanks @gbj_tester and @M_V - yes I do normally enter them in (or verify that what is in there matches the manufacturer site, as I can't easily take some of the measurements by hand to .1mm accuracy), I just hadn't clocked that the centre to flange measurement (which is actually printed on the hub!) is the bit that would be affected by it being a wider OLN.
Not sure if I can be bothered to build up the wheel though as I don't even have a frame that can accommodate boost 148!

As Dura-ace Hubs don't seem to come in 24h any more can anyone recommend a different Cup 'n' Cone hub for a road bike? (rim brake)

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