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• #36527
I was half joking but Is there no chance a good brushless motor will outlive the other bits of the unit?
For classic brushed motors what are you going to do other than pull the brushes once they are worn? Gonna pull the rotor out and skim the comm?Anything beyond that is motor replacement time - which inevitably means unit replacement time - I would have thought.
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• #36528
Thanks. In the absence of any other options I'm going to try it. Might even bust out the burnt sand putty and try to un-fuck the join between the render and the box.
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• #36529
Reply
That is one hell of a before and after, nice job, bet it just feels nice being in there now!
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• #36530
Same thing has struck me. Always feels like each area of older housing should have a 'resident' expert in how things were done/best way of repairing or modernizing. Instead every time you get a trade/contractor it feels like its their first day on the job when dealing with your particular older building issue.
Have a mate who's a multi-trade fix all the things, literally lives in his van or on customers site and has become the 'cheaper, fix and make it right, but using the correct materials and knowledge' kind of a guy, but in a sort of a scruffy way. If he was 20 years younger he would have defo have a fleet of others working for him making use of his knowledge and name and really making some progress round here, but think he's now at the point where hes really just doing the easier jobs so that he actually has a functioning body for his retirement!
Always think each local council /planning dept should have some kind of authorised/reccommended contractor list with some kind of accreditation, as the number of absolute chancers who just mince everything they touch seem to outnumber thes one's who actually know what they are doing, defo around Glasgow anyway**
**Been watching over the roads roofers totally fuck a set of chimney's, roof tiles, flashing, and anything else they possibly can in order to extend their job/£££
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• #36531
About to order some replacing double glazing glass panes to replace some that have misted up with the previous owner. Any forum recommended place to get them from?
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• #36532
These look great. I’m working out how to have eaves storage atm…
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• #36533
Not used them, but these guys have adverts on the radio all the time:
https://www.cloudy2clearwindows.co.uk/ -
• #36534
Thank you but I'm actually looking to do what they do as it's quite easy and just after glass panels rather than panels + installation
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• #36535
Aha! Apologies, misread the question.
There's an old fashioned glazing shop at the end of the road we're on, and have most-commonly seen Pilkington lorries delivering, so could try their supplier search?
https://supplierfinder.pilkington.com/SupplierFinder/ -
• #36536
Most local glass suppliers will be able to order a unit for you.
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• #36537
Yeah will give the local guys a call and see how that compares with these: http://www.glasstops.co.uk
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• #36538
I usually find the local guys will do a belt and braces job where any company that sells loads will know how to order the cheapest type. Things to check are the width of the sealing at the edges and whether you need toughened glass.
From a brief look at the prices on the website they are about the same as my local place.
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• #36539
Yep called the local guys and it was cheaper which is great
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• #36540
Some great views there.
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• #36541
Easy to change yourself if you own a rubber mallet, a pencil (mark the beads and orientation 1st), a big fat paint scraper or some kind of sharp flat edged tool, and probably a mate to help stop glass falling out at the critical moment.
Mark your beads, tops, left, right, bottom.
Strike the longest one out first, then the others. Hit in the middle towards centre of glass and then get the rest out with a tyre lever etc.
Get the unit out, mark on the frame number and location of any glazing packers.
Measure your unit.
Order.
Put it back in, then rinse and repeat when it turns up. Worth putting a pipe cleaner or a bent spoke through your drains in each unit too, make sure they all work, spiders do a good job of blocking them up.Most places sell 'low e' glass now, which is great, efficiency innit, but if you are just changing one glazing unit in a frame, and not the other, it will be noticeable from the outside that you have some low e and some regular coated glazing.
Bit of fairy or silicon grease to help let the beads back in is worth having on hand.
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• #36542
Yes that's exactly what I'm planning to do. Blew my mind when I found out how easy it is to do. Going to chat with the guys to see if they could actually re-build the panels from existing glass which is fine rather than brand new ones which would seem a waste.
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• #36543
Glass is very recyclable, wouldn't worry about it.
Its only if you've got some stained or decorative glass that you want to get sandwiched between, that you need the old glass.
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• #36544
Okay makes sense, local guy said it's too much time and effort to split and rebuild so they'll supply new
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• #36545
I'm very confuised about hinge types. I've built a cupboard from 18mm MDF and I want some soft close hinges.
Attached is a diagram of the action - which ones do I need?
1 Attachment
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• #36546
Blind corner?
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• #36547
thank you
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• #36548
I need to do this with a few windows at my house - unbelievably nervous about hitting a scraper next to my window pane.
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• #36549
Nah don't worry about it it's dead easy, most awkward bit is remembering where all the packers go. Watch this
maybe to help with confidence -
• #36550
Solid video! Thanks. Does make it seem as easy as I'd hope.
A few of them have access issues as they're old enough that the trim is on the outside (and on the first floor...)
Mmmm....... Yeah, replace an easily serviceable motor with one that isn't at all serviceable and means that if it does go wrong you have to replace the unit.