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Equivalents to sealskinz socks that aren’t £35 a pair?

My wife is doing 100km in one hit down the Cotswolds Way for dementia in a month so I’d like to get her a pair of waterproof socks just in case it turns out to be Britain.

Honestly, I wouldn't bother.

I've done loads of long walks, OMM's etc and waterproof socks either don't work or make it worse. Like all socks they have a hole on the top so water gets in, and cheaper ones don't breathe.

You're better off getting a good quality merino socks and accept it'll get wet, but will remain comfortable and warm/cool and dry very quickly.

Aren't gaiters the solution for dry feet while walking?

https://www.decathlon.co.uk/p/outdoor-gaiters-black/_/R-p-124466

Maybe carry a spare pair and some foot powder, in case there's a wet spell followed by a dry spell

Question about Centerlock disc brake rotors:

I've got a combination of Centerlock hubs and rotors with a particularly large amount of free movement.
I know that it's probably not an issue regarding the brake's functionality but feeling the rotor move on the spline with the brake locked still bothers me.

Would a retaining compound like Loctite 638 be able to take up all the free space?
How difficult would it be to change the rotor once it is worn?
Do I need an activator or will it cure reasonably fast without one?

Has anyone even tried this method before?

feeling the rotor move on the spline with the brake locked still bothers me.

Don't worry, your hubs will soon be destroyed and you can buy some 6-bolt ones

rotors with a particularly large amount of free movement.

I know that it's probably not an issue regarding the brake's functionality but feeling the rotor move on the spline with the brake locked still bothers me.

I don't think that should be happening at all. If the rotor is moving after its been tightened down, something isn't quite right. Can you take a picture to show whats happening?

That's encouraging! :-D

Thanks all!

It's a pretty common problem apparently.
For certain combinations of hubs and rotors the tolerance in the splined interface is quite sloppy... There are Centerlock adapters that fit securely onto the spline with a pinch bolt but they are hard to get and expensive. I would also need new 6-bolt rotors as well.
Hence the idea of removing the radial play with Loctite.

PS: lockrings are tightened to 40 Nm, going up to the upper limit of 50 Nm doesn't fix the issue.

Often it's the pads moving in the caliper and it just feels like the disc is moving

I've got centre lock discs on DT Swiss hubs, 220mm front rotor and 200mm rear, they don't move under braking at all - if they did I'd not trust them sufficiently to ride them.

With that said, if you're going to ride them anyway you may as well bond them in I guess. Maybe epoxy though, as the Loctite that I've used breaks down with heat? Bit of a one shot deal, of course.

Often it's the pads moving in the caliper and it just feels like the disc is moving

Pads are just floating loose in disc brakes, just held by a pin. They do move as n3il says.
Also floating rotors can have a little movement
I can't imagine even on a sloppy fit that you'd feel slop in the splines if they're done up to 50nm. That's a lot of friction to overcome

It's a pretty common problem apparently.

Is it?

I've never heard of this happening unless the bikes been used with the rotors not torqued down correctly and the splines have been chewed.
With the wheel out the bike, can you physically move the rotor with your hand while the lock ring is torqued to 40nm? If thats the case I think they might be fucked beyond repair.
I'd need to see a photo of the splined interface on your hubs and rotors really.

If there is enough slop in the splined interface wouldn't the soft aluminium be visibly chewed up?

As in, metallic particles weeping from the interface? I also wouldn't think that it would last very long before starting to skip, and then ultimately rotate.

Just make sure you're not braking much when riding backwards at speed and you'll be fine.

Just removed and reinstalled the rotor.
hub: Bitex BX106F, rotor: Shimano SM-RT81 160 mm

Here's photos of the splines of both hub and rotor and a video to show the amount of radial movement without the lockring.

3 Attachments

• IMG_0423.MOV
• 
• 

Torque to 50 Nm.

2 Attachments

• Untitled 2.mov
• 

Radial movement with lockring installed.

1 Attachment

• Untitled 3.mov

Just ignore it, you only brake going forwards.

Ahh, I thought it was rotational.

Some headset spacers to take up the slack?

headset spacers

I think BB spacers are the right diameter, but it's shims rather than spacers that are needed.

Yes, that’s what I meant, although not what I typed.

How are shims supposed to solve the issue? The lockring isn't bottoming out on the Centerlock mount of the hub.