Home DIY

oh crap! I’d better keep an eye on the bit I patched up with the grace of an ogre..!

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peeled up the rubber and scraped out as much glue as possible, naturally it’s caused other places, but i think that will do for my very lazy self.

hopefully not as noticable once the kitchen is in and we possible have a little rug in the middle to.

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Akemi stone glue to fix it back then mortar/ filler to stop water ingress. If anywhere near East London hit me up should have some kicking about you can use

I assume those external shutters are entirely too continental for east london.

If a door frame is 820mm wide can I get away with an 813mm door?

First time doing internal doors and this width is the only one that goes to 2m high.

My worst nightmare is putting the flooring down anything other than perfectly which is why for the past 5 months we've been living on plywood and concrete.

3.5 mm sounds like an acceptable gap to me. Did you measure the old door or another in the house?

The gap is usually 3mm all round (apart from the bottom which depends on floor surface etc) so a gap of 3.5mm should be fine!

Ha! Please feel free to live vicariously through me.

Next event: trying to sand and refinish 90sqm of floorboards (maybe… left getting pros a bit late and would like something done in 2 weeks when waiting lists appear to be 2-3 months).

The old school way of hanging a door is to use a pound coin as a gauge, so for the final offering up you aim for the door to be held in by a pound coin on the hinge side, lock side and head with a wedge holding it up to the head and no lateral movement.

Pros judge each other by how even the gap is round the door once it's been shot in (assuming the gap isn't too big or small). The only time building regs get involved is with fire doors in which case the gap must be more than 2mm and less than 5mm (an even 3mm gap being gold standard) this is allow the intumescent strip and cold smoke seal (if fitted) to function properly in the event of a fire.

Bear in mind that any timber door (even shitty hollow core jobs) will be subject to seasonal movement so the initial gap will change.

Indeed. The repair will have to withstand some severe summer sun.

Thank you all for the door reassurance.

Will the hinge being rebated in naturally give a 3mm gap?

I know an uneven gap will do my head in, even more so if I am responsible for it.

If the hinge is perfectly flush with the surface on both the door and door liner it should be very close (depending on the hinge) you can play about with shims to get it spot on.

You can buy shims specifically made for the job that come in a variety of thicknesses but for maximum old school chippy points use bits of old Rizla packet.

Love it.

If I'm going to spend a couple of days painting exterior wood can I do any better than Zinsser allcoat exterior gloss?

My eldest will be moving to the loft bedroom soon and the youngest will be moving out of the box room into the eldests former room. To prepare the loft, I took down all of the terrible light fittings so I could put things right and paint over the multiple shades of the previous owners favourite colour, blue, including a light blue ceiling. Will be Dulux Trade Matt White.
When taking down one light, I was greeted with a massive hole, covered by the base of the light.
I watched a few YouTube clips and decided I'd use the patch with some plasterboard then tape and fill. Found some plasterboard in a skip when out on a walk and used a few offcuts of wood that were lying about the fibre glass tape and Easifill. Required a couple of different rub backs as didn't use enough filler the first time. Getting the edges feathered was the hardest bit.
Just finished mist coating it (not shown) . Turned out OK I reckon.

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Looks like a decent patch that, good work!

I use it professionally all the time but I prime/undercoat it with Zinsser 123+ or Zinsser Cover Stain depending on the substrate.

Ta.

Sorry, me again.

Good product / technique for repairing / sealing these cracks and gaps?

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The olde fashioned way is burnt sand mastic, which expands & contracts with the stone mullions and wooden sash.

Or just cement render the lot, and sell before the inevitable water damage.

Presume something like this (first thing that came up) is good enough for the join between the wood and brickwork.

For the cracks in the mortar (render) itself assume I'm going to need something else, but what?

OK - how about for this guy

https://lfgss.microcosm.app/api/v1/files/0fc6338fb1283b8e45b981eeb0705fb693ef0258.jpeg

multi-tool to give the crack a mouth
clean / dust removal
PVA
Exterior filler

Re-paint

?

That 'Decorators Exterior' stuff will shrink by 10-15% as it dries.
It is water based and must lose the moisture to fully cure.
It also has only limited movement accomodation.
You are likely to find it has delaminated from one substrate or the other,
(depending upon which it sticks to worse), after a Summer.
Treat yourself, and the property, to something from the Soudal Fix All range.
The High Tack Adhesive & Sealant is available in white from Toolstation.

Nah you want giant 80mm+ UPVC trim pieces siliconed on with whatever came out of the pound discount bucket at B+Q, then smeared with a gritty wet builders finger, thats the proper way to do it*

*Please don't.