Dammit’s adventures in mountain biking

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  • Brakes are, I think, quite a personal choice.

    If it’s coming with the stock shock I’d 100% recommend the MegNeg aircan upgrade- hard to overstate how much of a positive impact it has.

  • Thanks for the tip..just read about it and seems like absolutely worth it specifically for the pace's kinematic..

  • I think so, having tried stock, SDU, coil, then SDU with the MegNeg.

    There's vanishingly little progression in the Pace kinematic, effectively it's a linear leverage curve and so you do need to look at how to flatter that, as it were.

  • Very good. I'd love to hit them in the dry!

    Snap, I'd definitely be up for a dry visit, preferably quite soon (if weather permits) so that the trails from SES are still there/discernible

  • A few other things whilst I think about it:

    • Pace ship the bike with the rear suspension in the high position, if you're going to run it as a 29er I recommend trying the low setting (but be prepared for pedal strike in either setting)
    • The chain, heel rub and BB/swingarm rubber pads are shit and will fall off, I'd recommend replacing with VHS Slapper tape
    • Be careful with Q factor, XT cranks will fit but XTR "enduro" will not, as the chain stays are very wide (relatively), the XTR cranks I bought for the 295 fit fine on my RAAW Madonna but they hit the heel-rub strips on the Pace
    • I'd add 2-3cm of sheath to the rear brake hose protection to avoid tugging on the hose during big compressions (using the stock length sheath is what repeatedly buggered my rear brake)
    • Foam cable anti-rattle sheath is crucial for the internal routing if you don't like a noisy bike, it used to drive me insane rattling over rough ground until I fitted some
    • The internal routing grommets are pretty soft, might be worth refreshing them as they tear easily and it's the sort of job you want to do once when building up the bike
    • The carbon skid plate will fill up with soil that is sprayed off the front wheel if you ride in wet conditions, I kept meaning to seal the leading edge with some helicopter tape but haven't got round to it yet
    • It's a great bike
  • Excellent advice, thanks for that. Already put in an order for the Megneg and foam sheats for the cables. I run xt cranks, so these should fit, although they are 175mm. I guess i will try them first and if pedal strikes bother me to much I will get some in 170.
    I also liked the idea of your 3d printed mini-linkage protector, so will try sth similiar once i have the frame.

  • I run 165’s and get pedal strike so 175 sounds ambitious

  • Spotted today on Pinkbike's Fort William preview


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  • must be unstoppable with those brakes

  • Yeah my xx1 mech has been surprisingly sturdy.

    They move when they detect an impact to reduce chance of damage.

  • must be unstoppable with those brakes

    I think they've realised why Bruni is so fast

  • Yeah, I knew about the motor disengaging on impacts. I was just dubious as to whether it would really work, but it does.
    Or at least it has done so far.

  • Spidey sense?

  • I really should have ordered these with the frame, still - covered now.


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  • I've got 5 XTR mechs in a box, broken in various ways. Not broken the single GX AXS mech I have yet. It's a lot sturdier. Also shifts better on XTR cassette/ chain that XTR derailleur does...

  • Raaw looks real nice. I need an enduro bike soon.

    1305mm wheelbase, no wonder it will ride.

  • They’re really burly. I’ve rebuilt a Franken AXS derailleur with the lower parts of an SX and it’s been smashed so much but keeps rolling.
    Other end, I’ve got an XTR rd that just refuses to go to lowest sprocket.

  • Aye, I’m on the axs/shimano hybrid bandwagon too.
    Crisp faultless axs shifting but without the loud clunkyness of a sram cassette.

    Gotta start an axs/shimano hybrid owners thread soon

  • New grips, new brake adapter for the 295. First time I’ve worn out a pair of grips I think. Renthal super tacky went on, huge improvement on the old (much harder/more slippery) ones.

  • Oops wrong thread

  • Probably a tiny little graze on the metal just near a pin/bush/pivot jobby, sometimes really hard to spot and causes it to not return to the bottom every time.

    +1 on the upper tier SRAM stuff just being tougher, not used AXS, but always been of the opinion that Shimano's higher tier stuff shifts better in higher gears (9-12th) even when very worn, SRAM cassettes and rear mechs/jockeys last longer until deemed worn enough to affect anything, but those last few cogs, 10/11/12th especially change with the grace of a 1" drive impact gun, i.e. CHU CLUNK

    Sram SX is garbage and should never have been made. Number of new bikes (<2 months old) where the rear mech has the same wear as a continuously used 2004 9s deore or XT rear mech, is unreal. NX isn't much better. GX or above ONLY. An actual waste of the earth's resources those cheaper ones.

  • That was exactly it. In the end, both were my own personal ones, so just fucking bent the whole cage. It works just fine.

    With you could disassemble them sram style.

  • but those last few cogs, 10/11/12th especially change with the grace of a 1" drive impact gun, i.e. CHU CLUNK

    So much this. It's strange that this is never mentioned in any reviews.
    I ran 11 speed xt on mtb for years before I bought an eagle groupset,the xt was faultless really, nice crisp shifts every time.
    The clunkyness of the downshifts on the eagle groupset drove me nuts, it was so fucking loud. Daring to pedal hard while shifting up made frightening noises. I thought it was some sort of set up error I was making before realising thats just how sram eagle is.
    The answer turned out to be a shimano chain and cassette.

  • I think that's inherent of the one piece design of SRAM cassettes, Hyperglide is definitely noted as having better shifting than any Eagle cassette though.

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Dammit’s adventures in mountain biking

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