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Montana Gold is great product.
If you're good with the processes and a confident maker/tool operator, there are benefits to a better quality paint like that.If you're more led by your budget, a Halfords colour will be fine too, it was designed for colour-matching and repairing finishes on cars so it's not garbage.
Spray.Bike is for hobbyists so it has some limitation. The pigment is amazing and covers super well. It also builds high so can be very forgiving on uneven substrates... like those which have been media blasted for example. What it won't do is lay flat from the can so, unless you work it with abrasives at every stage, you will get a peely finish. I have a couple dozen of these cans in my workshop unused. They're all for sale. Fiver a can if you want to come to Dulwich and choose your weapons and have a look round, ask questions about finishing etc.
Painting is easy.
The skill in in the prep and finishing.
the second clearcoat on the Supermeme bike makes all the difference... it could have benefitted from another AND some flatting and polishing to take it to the level of "premium" rather than "good diy job".Invest more money on the primer and clearcoat.
2k products which utilise a hardener will give you a much more robust result.Where the colour is concerned, you should avoid 2k... you need the paint to be "open" so you can blend, fade or use masks and stencils as demonstrated in the video. 2k colours will set hard and prevent you from doing technical speciality finishes.
Where those images are concerned, that precise effect on the Ribble can't be achieved using spray cans. It involves "floating" products on top of one another whilst preventing them from bonding together. It's done best with alcohol inks, custom-blended colour products and colourless solvents. Do LOTS of tests before you tackle that one. Have a look at Velofique to see it done well on a bike.
The Cougar looks straightforward but is a very tricky finish to get right. I wish you luck on that one.
For a DIY finish, Etoe's helmet video shows more of the complex layering processes involved in detail work - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p3az3ZuWaE4
For primer, when we teach refinishing for bikes, we show people how to use an epoxy primer because...
- it can work on almost any material
- builds high so forgives textured substrates (like budget blasted steel)
- sprays with similar properties to that of a clearcoat which has the effect of allowing you to practice clearcoating whilst you prime
An etch primer is excellent but you'll need to do a LOT of prep on the steel to get it flat before you start.
Feel free to ask any Qs or get in my DMS.
- it can work on almost any material
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general_greyharbour
@Juice.Bikes
About to send a load of frames to get sandblasted and going to do a small run of old school inspired paint jobs to then build up. While I don't have any spray gun experience I have used sprays for various work before, 1k mainly and confident I could get a good enough finish with the right stuff for frames.
I've only ever used halfords car paint for frames, grey primer and metallics over the top along with matching gloss clear coat, which has worked and lasted ok! but I assume theres some better alternatives. Has anyone on here got first hand experience with respraying cans to a good finish and what materials they used?
Etoe on youtube goes with montana gold paint - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rsD3E0b6mko
He does mention in Q&A that 2K is best, then also says you can use 1k but then goes on to say that metal etch primer is better for steel frames. I assume any decent metal etch primer would work well with acrylic montana gold paint? or would it then be better to use actual car paints, Halfords etc?
Just found this - https://www.rapidpaints.co.uk/products/pro-xl-etch-primer-aerosol-spray-500ml
Aim is to get finishes similar to the photos uploaded, 2/3 colours fades kinda thing or something like the ribble
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