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Just checked, there even is a product called Gelomat, which, if I understand correctly, is added to the last coat of le tonkinois to make it matte.
@MisterMikkel if you want the raw look, definitely.
I am not saying that other, for example modern linseed oil stuff, solutions aren't as good, but I did quite some reading and it didn't disappoint.
If you want to go down the spraygun and 2K route thats of course gonna end up totally different, but in my limited experience painting well needs a lot of eye/hand coordination, and there is a reason paining frames is quite a specialized area. And thats before you get into the health considerations.I painted some chairs with a tinted sauna oil, that was also interesting, some kind of oil/acrylic laquer.
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Those are the satin wood oils?
I'm definitely going to try the tonkin on the new frame once it's been modified.
I really like the idea of a non-solvent based, renewable alternative. -
Yes me too. Just got off the phone with the owner of the company. They are gonna send me some stuff for testing and I'll report back when I've done some research. I am also going to be meeting up with their chief painter at some point to discuss techniques and alternative application forms. I've got loads of ideas for it. Very very excited.
I am also working towards doing my own thing full time after summer so all of this aligns perfectly with my plans
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Colour for the MTB will be this Caput Mortuum. Slightly less red than initially planned, but I think that's a good move.
Caput mortuum (alternately called nigredo) signified a useless substance left over from a chemical operation such as sublimation and the epitome of decline and decay; alchemists represented this residue with a stylized human skull, a literal death's head.
The symbol shown on this page was also used in 18th-century chemistry to mean residue, remainder or residuum. Caput mortuum was also sometimes used to mean crocus metallorum, i.e. brownish-red metallic compounds such as crocus martis (ferrous sulfate), and crocus veneris (copper oxidule).
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Caput_mortuum
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Extra points for including Renthal bars in your design
Might want to rotate them back a little though...
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Interesting with the linseed paint. Actually Andreas owner of La Fraise cycles was also interested in trying the same route, mainly from an environmental standpoint. I think it makes a lot of sense. Fingers crossed!
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Is TIG better for your health? My maternal grandfather spent his whole life welding stainless steel sheet metal, and he and his former colleagues seems to be doing fine?
Sorry for derail
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As far as I know linseed oil cures (partly?) due to exposure to UV light - so there might be a way to speed up curing time.
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I read up on a local house renovation forum and cobolt + zirconium seems to speed things up, but that kind of defeats the purpose I guess...
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'sikkativ' common root with the English 'dessicate'
or 'drying agent',
as in wet film applied drying, (really reacting/curing), to a tack-free coating.It's the age old problem,
pure no-additive Linseed Oil has minimal risks of hazards when applying,
it just takes forever to fully cure.'Boiled' Linseed Oil has heavy metal catalysts/drying agents that reduce the cure time,
but have significant exposure risks.
c.h.e.
MisterMikkel
M2nna
spotter
Tijmen
MattG87
BareNecessities
stelfox
SasenFrAsen
mespilus-
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About
Hulsroy's Hustle
Posted by
@Hulsroy
Previously I’ve used boiled linseed oil on smaller steel parts. Wire brush, paint on boiled linseed and bake in the oven at 200 for an hour. It gives a nice even soft sheen to them. If you use unboiled you get an almost black colour. I’ve also just painted on boiled linseed oil onto a couple of outside steel sculptures we have to arrest the rust. We’ll see how that works. If it looks good/works I’ve a pair of forks to do next.