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• #36302
Very nice. Well done, it's all coming together.
Are you tempted to put some sort of insulation in the roof?
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• #36303
Question; how long will it take me, on my own to dig a trench?
0.18m³
Soil type; should be brutal clay
(but it could have a decent layer of garden beddign topsoil type stuff.)Background; my ground in the neighbours garden that butts up to my brick shed comes above the DPM. Ideally one day it needs to be dug out and at the very least have gravel put in the gap to help move the water away. I think they may be selling, which makes it feel like that day has arrived.
The brick shed is ~3m long. I'm guessing I'd need to dig 3 bricks worth of depth.
So....
Bricks @ 65mm x 3 ≈ 20cm
Trench maybe 20-30cm
0.2 x 0.3 x 3 = 0.18m³^ is that right?edited. -
• #36304
fortunately i think your calcs are off - should be 0.2*0.3*3 = 0.18m^3
Which doesn’t seem a lot? No more than a few hours?
Dug out a 2.1*2.6 floor 30cm down (1.6m^2) and filled a skip with buckets in a day - though my hands haven’t yet forgiven me.
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• #36305
Cheers.
Trying to do too many things at once clearly!
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• #36306
0.18m^3
[Edit] answered already I see.
The difference between half a day and a month of digging though.
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• #36307
Ha!
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• #36308
Are you tempted to put some sort of insulation in the roof?
Thought about it, then couldn't be arsed. If it was a garden office or something I might have done.
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• #36309
Also yours is at the back with established trees around right?
My wood one sits right bang in the sunniest spot of the garden. I bought some of that silver insulating foil stuff for the roof to put up at some point to take the edge of. Still on the TDL...
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• #36310
I had to clear that area for the retaining wall and ground work, so there's a bit of sun. But there is still a LOT of shade. No danger in it getting too hot I don't think as it's well ventilated (there's a 2" gap along each of the eaves with a fly screen/mesh, 6 opening windows, two opening roof lights and double doors). As for cold, I'm not too worried about that and didn't suffer with condensation in my last, much smaller wooden shed with no insulation. This one has much better ventilation, is raised up off a concrete base with a good fall for water, and it has gutters (which I actually need to fix, now I remember).
Speaking of trees, had a tree surgeon round to quote and will be getting 4 sycamores (1 just in the neighbour's garden that he is paying for) removed which will help the rest of the garden. Will still have a big Oak (which is going to have it's dead limbs removed and the canopy brought in a bit), a large Cherry, a Holly (also getting a haircut), a Chestnut, a BIG Laurel and some other random outgrown shrubs for nature and shade. The tree surgeon charges a 5% surcharge for every tree totally removed which they donate to trees for cities. So hopefully some other beneficial trees go up in lieu of these bastard sycamores.
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• #36311
has anyone used these types of lock before, are they any good? reccomendations?
Am sick of having so many keys to get out the house/into shed/out the garden
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• #36312
Am sick of having so many keys to get out the house/into shed/out the garden
The old fashioned approach of some keyed alike Euro Cylinders solves that
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• #36313
Is it worth applying some sort grout sealer to grout in a kitchen? Just thinking about something to limit the fat ingress from cooking on the hob
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• #36314
TIL.
Don't think it would work as all my locks are different barrels etc
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• #36315
Fitted a new bath and taps and water starts spraying up the tiles, there’s a tiny hole in the tap casting !! How is this possible? It’s a bristan tap Poor QC?
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• #36316
Really stupid 101 question but when mounting something like a big mirror with wire on a picture hook, do you get it flush to the wall? Or is that a lost cause? Cheers!
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• #36317
Have you got a picture rail, then the mirror on a slight slant looks proper.
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• #36318
I do yeah but even with a small picture still super slanted
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• #36319
Lost cause generally. Mirror brackets are better all round
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• #36320
Bristan quality has also messed up my day. I have seen issues from most manufacturers though. I used to say Crosswater was the cheapest manufacturer I would fit but they're not cheap any more.
Here's the broken bit of a Bristan shower unit that I discovered was broken too late to save me removing the old one.
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• #36321
They're all much of a muchness.
As far as I can see there's not much difference between the cheap ones and the expensive ones.
I don't have experience with the once you've linked to but most are weatherproof. The only thing I would say is some digilocks have a really bad way to set the code: you need to remove a plate and change the orientation of pins in the lock, said pins are spring loaded so invariably when you remove the plate it pings off and the springs and pins go flying leading to you crawling round hunting down the little fucking things. Avoid those ones they're a pain.
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• #36322
You could improve the current setup by tightening the wire a bit and sticking a bit of something on the inside at the bottom - if you chop up one of those pads you put on furniture on wooden floors they work well.
It won't be flush but it will be parallel :D
EDIT: love that cornice btw
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• #36323
cheers :)
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• #36324
We are ripping our kitchen out next week, long story of friend setting up kitchen biz and using us as a beta/alpha test ensues to create an amazing space for us beyond what we would actually be able to do somewhere else renders the current setup defunkt! Units, bar the ones linked to the kitchen sink all seem in ok condition. (Its a 15 year old IKEA kitchen). Would anyone want anything from the wreckage? Thinking box units and cabs? If I had a shed it would be going there but London etc.
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• #36325
Don't think it would work as all my locks are different barrels etc
Depends what the mix is - you can certainly get Euro/oval/Yale all keyed to pass
Workshop looks well. I’m jealous of the space you have. Good job !👍