Home DIY

Cheers. For the mist coat, you just mean diluted wall paper paste? Or something else like pva?

I think the pattern will dictate it.

It's a bit annoying as we were sort of under the impression that they would make good, which is our fault for not clarifying. But if we'd known then we would have removed those strips first and planned for it. Whereas as it stands I can't do it today, and I can't do it tonight.

Great, thanks. I'll probably do it 'properly' myself then. Means I can put some sockets in the shed as well.

mist coat

50/50 matt emulsion and water

mist coat

Diluted white emulsion paint, it will highlight any areas that need further attention in terms of sanding and filling. Stuff that will show through on the finished surface if not corrected.

To give @hugo7 clarity, it's also because fresh plaster soaks up a lot of moisture. If you didn't start with diluted paint, the moisture would be soaked up and the remaining paint would bubble and flake off over time.

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Cheers.

Makes sense.

For the avoidance of any doubt this wall has been this way for >6yrs and was previously covered with tiles until today.

The options are

A. tile over as before
B. Lining paper over the existing plaster to meet the other lining paper above.
C. Some sort of hybrid plastering blended into the lining paper above.

Anything involving water is going to do weird things to the existing paper. You might not want to hear this but I'd strip it all back, smooth it out with easifill or whatever, then mist coat and repaper. Yes it's a faff and yes it would take me months to get around to it all, but anything else is likely to look a mess.

Carefully scribed the work piece to .25mm tolerance - check.

Lined up all the other components to make sure it all fits together properly - check.

Marked for biscuit placement to ensure correct alignment - check.

If I quickly get these biscuit mortices cut I can get this in now and I'll be ahead in the morning.

🤦🤦🤦🤦🤦🤦🤦🤦🤦🤦🤦🤦

Why the fuck did I rush? I don't even have an apprentice to blame these days!

EDIT - fuck it I'm going to the pub on my way home.

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I'll ask what I'm sure others are thinking... what's the issue?

I cut the mortices on the wrong face. The face I did cut them on will be visible when the unit is complete.

I am a dick because I rushed and therefore fucked up.

Ah. That’s not good! Now to spend twice as much time scarfing / filling ;-)

Luckily I have some offcuts from the board cutter so it will be better if I re-cut the piece and start that component over.

where's the best place to buy an underfloor heating system ? I'm going to DIY the install but ideally the system would come with an install design/pattern

function, aesthetic after. I think I will use all 3 on each bracket and not have a third bracket. And just gauge how it is doing weight wise. Good idea on removing the shiny finish and I might paint the bracket the wall colour. cheers

You are obliged to do it properly and that should mean testing the RCD operation and Zs of the circuit. You can DIY it but bear in mind there are legitimate safety concerns both with installation and operation, so it's worth doing some research.

I was planning on screeding/self-levellinging the kitchen floor to cover the pipes, but worried shuttering around the junction with the dining room floorboards (to be sanded) is a recipe for disaster.
The final floor needs to finish atop these bricks (where a wall used to be), if not a bit further to allow for trimming of the dud ends of boards).

I started thinking that perhaps getting treated battens and laying them with ply on top (and PIR in between) might be a safer option? Unless, as ever, I’m missing a good reason not to do so.

edit: excuse the unnecessary red circles - also sending to my dad where they are required

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Garages - built in IIRC 1932 I'm very doubtful that there is a DPM under the slab.

Whilst the site is on top of a hill, the soil in the garden that backs onto the garages is around a metre above the floor level in the garage.

I described this to the chap quoting for grinding and sealing the floors and he responded with this:

"They are most probably right that there would be no damp course due to the age and the hill behind could defiantly be a concern for the longevity of the floor,they are also right the best way to move forward would be to use a polyurethane as that is essentially a liquid dpm.

I would approach it slightly different, I would use a polyurethane as a liquid dpm and go up at least two courses of bricks,then apply a re-enforced smoothing compound then apply the final coats of epoxy primer and paint. (please see pictures attached) although using a heavier coat of polyurethane is not incorrect in it self you do need to have that layer of concrete on top to ensure the longevity of the floor, creating the concrete polyurethane(dpm) concrete sandwich is the correct method to move forward with and will ensure any warranties in place will cover for any potential issues that may accrue."

If I read that correctly he's suggesting tanking the garage to above the level of the garden behind?

It’s a bit ambiguous. Two courses above floor level in the garage (what I’d interpret it to mean), or two courses above the level of the soil.

I’d imagine you’d want to tank the inside to above the soil level, but I’d imagine you’re after a moisture level below what most people would find acceptable for a garage.

Yes, I can't see the point in any coating that finishes below the soil as I imagine moisture would simply run down the face of it.

The moisture level itself is pertinent because it'll lift the epoxy coating on the floor - which would rather bugger the surface finish.

I would also like a nice dry garage, as rust is annoying.

Annoyingly, but handily the tiler couldn't come so I've repaired the wall and bought lining paper.

Should I put the lining paper on now, in advance of the tiler turning up tomorrow (hopefully). Or should I wait until they are finished tiling?

Cheers

As a side note, having bought a roll of lining paper I now realise why people use it. It is insanely cheap.

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It’s a bit ambiguous

Agreed. But it's got to mean 2 above the soil.

the soil in the garden that backs onto the garages is around a metre above the floor level in the garage.

If it wasn't that would be, what? 75cm of exposed brick?

Worth checking, either way.

I’m looking to install a patio in our garden, and want to lay a concrete slab for porcelain tiles to go down on. Approximately 15sqm and will need full levelling with a sub base. Anyone had much experience with costs of something like this? Looking at whether we get someone in or break our backs and DIY.

I would wait until the tiles are up because then I think you'll be able to make the join neater