Home DIY

Yep.

A Fuse, nowadays, is in a 13A plug only. There are 5A rated plugs to plug a light into a 6A rated lighting circuit but the don't have fuses in them. Bit specialist nowadays but handy for wall mounted fixtures that you want to swap to a stand alone lamp.

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I had the same in the hall (and probably under the stairs, although I haven't dared look). 40grit in the belt sander and many very light passes eventually took it off. Every so often would get to hot and gum up the paper. Glad it's gone now and just hoping I can convince partner new carpet is the way forward with the stairs.

I've got a new light to fit where this rose is at the moment. The new light fits flush to the ceiling so I think I need to remove the rose and use a junction box that can sit up in the ceiling cavity. Any recommendations for a junction box?

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Yes, that is what you are talking about. What fuse should I put in the plug that I'm going to put on the end of the ceiling light cable.

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A lot of the 4 bed houses I work on have a circuit of these in the living room. It's a decent system if they happen to be where you want them.

Feel increasingly old school in these days of smart lightbulbs though.

I use these.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/wago-light-junction-box/8423F?

They’re smaller than a normal wago box so are easier to stuff into the hole behind the rose.

Technically you need to “lock” it shut with a cable tie to make it meet regs/be maintenance free.

Great, I thought those might be the ones. Thanks.

Do I need to get some of the 224 connectors separately?

Personally I’d buy this:
https://www.screwfix.com/p/wago-basic-installer-connector-set-75-pack/48808
Use a 2 way push in for the live
4 way push in for the loop
4 way push in for the neutral
4 way push in for the earth.

Might take a bit of jiggling to get it to fit.
The 224 connectors are more used for spot lights rather than making a 3 plate junctions as they don’t have enough terminals more than 1 cable in and out on the feed side.

Got a 2m x 30cm shelf to put up, quite heavy, and grabbed a pair of these brackets to fix them to a brick wall. Would it be advisable to put a third up straight away or try two and see how it goes? Think 4 is overkill. Won't be loads going on it. Also thinking brown raw plug and this size coach screw. 3 holes per bracket into the wall

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Id use brown plugs but they bolts are overkill imo.

Are we talking about aesthetics or function?

We have some similar brackets with x3 fixing holes, and I used 2 slot headed japanned screws top/bottom and then cut the heads off the others and stuck them on with super glue. Very un-lfgss, but they're rocks solid and it made for a quicker job with less drilling.

If you are set on those bolts, then I think it might be worth DIY heating them to lose the shinny finish. Depending what you want I'd either brush them with a green pad, or polish them before heating.

Some decorating help needed....

We are having our kitchen retiled. We ideally don't want tiles on the edge of the door where they previously were. The tiler has removed the old ones and won't replaster/make good as they don't know about plastering. They were initially in favour of retiling the door frame, obviously. Other tilers who've come, quoted, then disappeared all seemed confident about tidying the wall up.

What do I need to do to tidy the wall so it merges well into lining paper?

Paint is brilliant white Dulux kitchen hardwearing stuff. I still have a load of the Toupret Fibarex Quick Set Exterior Filler White that I used on the porch which seemed to come up pretty smooth. I am not adverse to buying something else, but I don't really want to try and fit lining paper if possible.

1. Knock down and flatten any raised sections,
   
2. clean
   
3. buy product [??????]
   
4. apply/skim on to the wall as best I can
   
5. block sand with a big block
   
6. apply some sort of thin filler [which one?] to even out my imperfections
   
7. repeat 5.
   
8. repeat 6.
   
9. repeat 5.
   
10. paint
    
    

Cheers.

Worth saying that this isn't a perfect kitchen. We are trying to improve it, so I would be happy with a "good enough not to notice", rather than passing close inspection for something you've paid for. If that makes sense.

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I know I need new door trim.

Can't see how tiles would be such a poor solution that you'd put yourself through trying to fix that up tbh. But then, your kitchen, not mine.

Not the most elegant of solutions, but could you use some door trim type PVC sheet to just stick on top for that strip? immediately adjacent to the units/tiles-to-be?

If it was me, and you are not me, I would get the wall plastered. I have a neighbour who is a plasterer and I wouldn’t expect the cost to be much more than a few beers etc. If you know a plasterer or have a mate who is one - speak to them. Failing that, and I guess you are in London, I would have a wander round my local area and look for builders. If I found one who didn’t look too dodgy, I’d see if they had a plasterer and see if they could pop round with a bucket of plaster and sort it for a minimal cash fee.
This advice may not be much help but it is what I would do. The next alternative is pay for a plasterer or DIY it. Someone else can advise re. DIY as I don’t have the knowledge.

How thick are the tiles? Could you use 12 mm mdf to cover then have the tiles meeting that to be consistent across the whole wall

So, my OH is grumpy about the whole thing. After looking again I think knocking down and filling the dips followed by lining paper might be the way to go.

@Howard - the main thing is how the pattern works once retiled.

the main thing is how the pattern works once retiled.

OK. I can see how that might be an issue.

I love working with Valchromat but don't think I'll ever stop being disturbed by the fact I end up covered in multicoloured saw dust..

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I ran a 2.5mm SWA cable down the side of my garden before a patio was built, it runs under gravel round the side so could be removed if necessary.

Initially I was just going to put a 16amp connector at either end and use a jumper and something like this at the other end to connect it to the current outdoor plug. The outdoor plug is on one of two 32amp RCDs that serve the kitchen. I will be plugging in a flymo and probably outdoor lighting in the future.

Alternatively was going to put a fused spur off the existing 13amp outlet and hard wire the cable in. Would this be notifiable because it is external, or is it fine because it is an existing circuit?

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Nice score. Ta for the info I'll have a dig round the internets

knocking down and filling the dips followed by lining paper might be the way to go.

Bingo.

From the photos this seems to be the most sensible way to do it, and what I'd do. It won't be a nice job and you should invest in a decent dust mask and keep any little ones away while the sanding is going on. You'll also need to apply a mist coat before lining and pay close attention to any filling required.

Heh: 'Don't know about plastering.'

What's to know? Buy (gypsum) plaster (£7.50) and float (£5), mix with water, strip wall, wet wall, apply 2mm to wall (bottom-to-top), make sure it's smooth, wait to dry, apply 1mm second coat, make sure it's smooth, paint.

Looks like a fun (small) section to DIY? I'd remove as much of the stuff above as possible as you should get a better finish that way.

The last conversation on this thread about exterior electrics concluded they are no longer notifiable. I've not taken the test for the most recent edition but it checks out.

https://www.niceic.com/Niceic.com/media/Schemes/NICEIC-Part-P-Updated-Factsheet.pdf