Home DIY

Should be a straightforward job if the wall is sturdy, just have to choose a relevant fixing, simpliest would be thunderbolts or standard screws and plugs, I have never had much luck with shield anchors, but have with resin filled capsules. all depends on how strong it needs to be, but i'm sure others will be along to give better advice!

Hammerite do a straight to galvanised paint

simpliest would be thunderbolts or standard screws and plugs, I have never had much luck with shield anchors, but have with resin filled capsules

Thanks for sharing your thoughts. I only have experience with rawl plugs but then that's been for wire rather than anything heavy. The wall is London stock with modern repairs / replacements where the neighbours had a kitchen extension done. My instinct would be to increase the number of fixings rather than try and put heavy duty stuff in designed for concrete?

thnx, will try this

hammer fixings are normally best for this type of thing i think

I think I have finally finished the patio and path, plenty of mistakes and amateur efforts but looks fine from a distance... Still need to give it a proper wash to clean off the remaining sand but may just let that happen naturally.

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London stocks can be tricky, esp if the wall is old and built with soft mortar. You have to choose your fixing points carefully whichever fixing you use — they won't fix into soft mortar, and the brick crumbles easily! I've only seen epoxy capsules used in France (to re-fit window shutters) and they sound like a good idea.

It sucks to live in an area with no history, but I'm often glad my house is less than thirty years old...

What's a good paint colour for a dark hallway? I've read that bright white is a no no.

Also, any recommendations on durable, wipeable wall paint?

Yeah, if you want a dark hallway I'd avoid white. If anything it'll make it lighter.

Recent conversations on this has lead me to weighing up Dulux Easycare against Leyland Trade Hardwearing - albeit specifically looking for a bog standard white colour.

I meant to make a dark hallway lighter!

This looks great! Re your wooden structure in the foreground - did you DIY/was it simple? Looking to do similar soon but then braced against the rear wall of my place, sort of pergola-y....

Cheers

@Airhead and any other festool fans

How noisy is the filter clearance cycle on the Festool CTL / CTM m-class extractor?

Also do you have any experience with the heavy duty empty-able Festool bags?

Finally do you know if the Bluetooth automatic switch on gizmo only works with Festool Bluetooth modules or other tool manufacturers?

I'm in the market for a second portable dust extractor and while I really rate my Bosch one it's huge, fuken noisy when the filter clears and you can't empty the dust bags so expensive to run long term (unless you like it beeping constantly because the filter is blocked). The Festool ones are more compact and pack up nicer.

So the door is hung and locks are in. Some repaircare and linseed oil paint on the frame and the long journey of the £35 door will be just about complete. I need to repoint around the frame as there was some sort prodect in there what was falling out and the bricks and pointing to the right of the door needs some attention. I've got 4 replacement bricks from a neighbour so have been watching YouTube videos on how to replace bricks. Stand by for the rear of my property collapsing.

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I put up a fence using basically that construction except that I mounted posts to our side of the wall and then screwed additional posts to the side of those so that they sat on top of the wall. That way I could mount the fence panels on top of the wall. Some random thoughts:

I used thunderbolts and counterbored holes for the heads with a washer under them. My thinking was to avoid any expanding fittings that might crack the bricks. I kept the bottom of the posts off the ground to avoid rot and then bolted them to the wall as low as possible and also into the second course of bricks from the top of the wall(my logic being that I didn't want too much wind loading being applied to the very top course). I aimed for the middle of the brick in all cases, adjusting by one course (never to the top course though) if the usual location would put me at a mortar joint.

By far the most time-consuming part of the job was carving or shimming the posts that were bolted to the side of the wall to account for the fact that the wall was not plumb or smooth. There may be quicker ways of getting the posts all vertical and aligned with each other, or it may not be necessary if your wall is better than mine was.

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you could also consider using concrete screws - pilot hole then impact the screw in. So for example 7.5mm screw needs a 6mm pilot hole

When I did ours I went into the top of the wall to save some space. I used posts with threaded bolt already mounted in the base although this was just convenient as it's easy enough to fix threaded rod into posts.

Drilled the holes, swept and hoovered then used epoxy cement in a tube to fix the bolt into the wall. I put a rubber electrical back box grommet on the rod before fixing it so that there's some movement in the post.

They have been in place for a few years now.

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I've got the CTL36 in my (tiny) workshop. I've also got a CTM36 with the Planex.

The filter clean cycle is noisy but just sounds like muted banging. If you are using normal bags you don't need to have it engaged.

I've only used the heavy duty reusable bag with the planex when I'm sanding filler. It requires you to use it when sanding filler, the pores on a normal hoover bag clog with the amount of fine filler the planex can create.

It's like a big thick black dustbin bag and it works, the filter clean cycle removes filler from the filter and the bag fills up, you can empty it into another container and reuse it.

Both of them are portable but when they're full they are a handful on small staircases. The full bags must weigh close to 20kgs.

I've only tried the bluetooth with the button that connects to the hose and it works perfectly, whether it works with other stuff I don't know as I've not been through the connection process for any other tools.

What angle is the bottom of the post cut at? is it in a v-shape? Just struggling to get my head around the image.

Not really DIY but this is where the Makita people hang out - their tyre inflator is currently the lowest price it's ever been on Evilzon

Have you ever used one of these to pump up car tyres? Does it work?

Cheers.

Yes, yes. Also does bike tyres very well, but is terrible at pool inflatables.

Wasn't sure whether to ask here or the homeowners thread, but hot water problems....

If you keep loosing hot water does that mean your boiler is fucked or could it be something else?

We got our boiler serviced ~12m ago, but the guy said it was on its way out anyway as it had been over pressurised which had fucked the seals or valves or something. It's been alright till now, but recently it's a complete gamble whether you can make it through a shower without it going cold.

Mainly just want a bit of knowledge/experience/reassurance before we commit to a new boiler.

Cheers.

Cheers. Why is it so bad at pool inflatables? Too much volume?

(not that I have a pool, but a load of inflatable paddling pool thingys)

Yeah it just can't shift enough air.