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• #4552
Prob a little too recent for this thread, but surely a good deal?
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• #4553
Paris TDF and loads of other vintage bikes for sale
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/275290326516?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=pngq1KnlSFu&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=XYt2UMHST4u&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=EMAIL -
• #4554
I would have added this new build to here or the actual Gillott thread, however i thought starting a new thread could garner more tradfic. it hasnt?
Basically im hoping to make as much cash as possible for the evelina charity.
Apologies for the blatant plug. -
• #4555
Would an oscar egg frame fit in here?
Where would I find details on how to identify an oscar egg frame. Thanks.
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• #4556
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• #4557
I assume you've seen this one?
https://www.classiclightweights.co.uk/readers_bikes/oscar-egg-super-route-special-1939/
Could be hard to identify an actual Oscar Egg frame though, as the lugs he designed were so widely used.
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• #4558
@SideshowBob Have seen that, what piqued my interested is that after he retired he started building bikes in Paris.
@jeff80 Yeah that is the issue, as well as is the frame an oscar egg or something label oscar egg after Oscars death.
Is the bike pre 50s? Probably not but piqued my interest as it could be 531 steel.
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/432901261973137 -
• #4559
In all honesty that looks 50s to me, but you should buy it just to change those handlebars...
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• #4560
Oh god yes.
That devalues it for and makes it unrideable.
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• #4561
Looks like the bike has been sold, or they have blocked me.
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• #4563
Holdsworth 1950's forks - has anyone got any please ?
I think they are much the same for several models, I have a 1957 Cyclone that I'm restoring, but it has much later Tange forks.
DM is best, to avoid spoiling the thread for others, thanks in advance, Gren
Should look something like ....
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• #4564
Ive had this listed for a while on evil bay
Does someone want this for a £50 Payment to the forum?
Collection from e17
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• #4565
I’d expect those that do want something from this to keep passing it through the forum. I got this all through a friend that was doing up a house in East Ham and must of been an old man cyclist.
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• #4566
Dm’ing
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• #4568
Does anyone know the correct bottom bracket length for Stronglight 49d cranks running a single chainring/fixed gear set up on a road/track frame?
I currently have a TA 314 axle fitted which was correct for a set of TA pro 5 viz ('pista') cranks but I have broken these.
As this is the 2nd set of TA cranks I have snapped (the non drive side broke at where it fits to the BB axle this time with no warning) I am a bit wary of them , so would like to move to a set of 49ds which will after all be more period correct for the frame. -
• #4569
I 'm not the world's leading expert on the subject, but this is what I believe to be correct.
TA 314 is correct for a single chainring ( a double normally needs a 344). Newer 314 spindles are marked 111.
TA and Stronglight 49D are virtually identical, so no need to alter the BB spindle.
Steel right hand cranks (most makes) are made either for single or double rings - a crank for a double ring has a bigger gap between the crank and the ring to allow space for the changer, and the double type needs a longer spindle. I've got three old TA/Stronglight cotterless cranks here, and they all have the same gap - I don't know whether there was ever a crank of this type for single rings. For what it's worth I do know the 'Professional' adapter did come in both single and double form.
The 'double' type of crank will fit on a 314 spindle, but the inner ring will probably foul on the chainstay.
Since the TA and Stronglight versions are so similar I doubt whether there is any difference their strength and durability. If a crank breaks at the spindle end it could be metal fatigue or just bad luck, but I suspect the most likely cause is over tightening of the retaining bolt (not necessarily by the current owner!).
My own method for fitting these cotterless cranks is: oil the spindle, fit crank and tighten bolt but only using moderate force. Then ride a few miles (maybe five) and retighten the bolt. Check again after a few days. Opinion seems to vary about using oil, but I have found my method works, and it's worth bearing in mind that a shop does not want to have a bike back for checking and doesn't care if the crank won't come off the spindle in a couple of years time!
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• #4570
Thanks, great advice as always. To be honest, I rather suspect that over tightening of the retaining bolt was the issue here-and that I am indeed the culprit. I also think the crank may have been a little worn where the spindle goes through it, thus meaning my rather over-zealous tightening forced the crank quite a bit further onto the spindle than intended. No injury this time as I was just starting away from some traffic lights, so I count it as a lucky lesson learned really (although the rider behind me near jumped out of his skin at the snapping noise). I shall try your oil/fit/ride/retighten method when fitting the replacement.
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• #4571
Does anyone want this, believed to be Selbach, sweet sweet fixed 1930's trike?
I got it from Hefty in 2017. His power on the last ride under his ownership shattered the cog and I've been too lazy to replace.
Will link the build thread.
Free to anyone who promises to fix it and won't onsell. Collection from SE6.
https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/254903/
1 Attachment
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• #4572
Oh my
No, can’t
Will get into such trouble if I dibs this -
• #4573
I love the total impracticality of it.
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• #4574
You know where I live. Come geddit :)
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• #4575
I have a potential buyer for your trike - I've just sent you a PM.
Early Claud Butler track going cheapish in North London. Could be a good project....
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/255493092004?hash=item3b7c9332a4:g:zxAAAOSw5spiXBw0