1960s Viking path racer invariably not lockable skidder

Like many of you, I have a shed jam-packed full of parts from old projects. I have done my absolute best to rationalise this over the years and have whittled everything down to roughly one-bikes-worth of nice usable parts.

With that in mind, I have decided to put together a semi-lockable commuter for shredding around Bristol. After procuring a nice set of wheels from @passhnting, thus began the tireless search for a suitable frameset. Key attributes had to include:

1. Shagged but not too shagged
   
2. Suitable to be run fixed
   
3. Mudguard eyelets
   
4. Friendly tyre clearances
   
   

After a wee bit of searching, I won an auction for a nice 531 Viking path racer frameset that is supposedly from the 60s. This has some really nice classic Nervex lugs and a particularly handsome spear pointed fork crown. There's a small ding in the top tube and it's a bit rough, but that's perfect for me.

While the seller suggested the frameset has most likely been resprayed during its lifetime, I'm not convinced as the decals look very original.

In brief, the build is shaping up like this:

1. 1960s Viking frameset
   
2. H+Son TB14 rims on shiny silver Ambrosio hubs
   
3. Boggo Shimano 600 crankset with chainring en route from the kindly @¡apesta!
   
4. Dia-Compe 610 centrepull brake
   
5. Velo Orange mudguards
   
6. Indeterminant upright-ish cockpit. Most likely some boggo risers as that's what I have in my shed for now, but may well switch to some sort of 'north road' setup
   
   

Fun jobs so far:

1. The rear-end is 110mm spaced, which is typical for bikes of this era. I had considered cold-setting the frame, especially as we have the tools to do so in work, but I've never actually done it and would prefer to try respacing the wheels first. Amusingly, the wheels were shifted by @passhunting after an attempt to convert the wheels to 135mm, so now I've got the fun of fully reversing this process.
   
2. The fork drops needed filled out from 5/16" to suit modern axles. I will profess to not knowing that this was even a thing prior to owning this bike and now I thoroughly regret not buying that rotary tool in Lidl the other night.
   
3. Conversely, I was pleased to have picked up that tap and die set from Lidl as tapping out the mudguard eyelets to suit M5 bolts was a real treat.
   
4. The frame is supposedly designed around a 27.2mm post but the one I have feels a bit baggy in there. I suspect shimming will be required.
   
5. The brake routing is presenting a serious conundrum. I've kept a hold of this nice old Cinelli stem for years that is drilled for cantis, but the cable routing to this will be hideous with flat bar levers. I momentarily considered using a V-brake noodle to smooth the routing but that's a dreadful idea. I will most likely resort to using a cable hanger and will just have to take the hit. The gross Sturmey Archer brake lever will go once I have settled on bars.
   
6. Much ruminating will happen over the best luggage solution for this bike. I will be commuting (for approximately 7 minutes, lol) every day on this bad wagon and would like to ditch my backpack. Pizza rack? Wald basket? Do I also want a rack on the back for occasional schlepping? Unsolicited advice welcomed.
   

4 Attachments

Looking good.

Slack-looking seattube angle might necessitate an online post?

For luggage I'd chuck on a rear rack, doubled up with the mudguard eyelets and restrained off the rear brake bridge. Tubus fly if it'll fit and the budget allows.

waves
Love my front rack for a short commute. Bunch of spare tubes wrapped around it for the inevitable buying too much in Lidl on the way home.

Quite probably re in-line post. Laid back posts are bad (for me) on 99% of bikes let alone this. I’ll rumble about on this to start though in case it turns out to be a total noodle.

When you enlarge the brake bolt holes you can better maintain alignment by using a stepped drill bit such as this.

I worry that a rotary tool might leave things more up to chance. But would likely be fine if you were methodical.

Might it not be better to file the wheel axle rather than the dropouts? I did this once using nothing more than a hand file. Worked fine. Although obv only worth doing if the wheelset is dedicated to this frame...

My bad, I misread the issue as a brake bolt hole thing. I would not touch the fork ends. I saw someone take a Dremel to some frame dropouts once and they made a right mess.

The deed is done with the fork ends, and everything is sitting straight. Bear in mind 5/16” is 7.938mm, so we’re only talking a very small amount of material being removed to take it up to ~8mm for a modern axle.

Chainring should arrive today and some fabulous ‘Velo’ black cork grips are also due to arrive. I’ve heard mixed things about these, but worth a crack for £6. If they’re guff, I’ll lump for some from Velo Orange.

Getting there!

The bars are fine, and actually look ok, but I want something more upright with fashionable sweep. Will spend the next few days on eBay obsessing about that.

As expected, the slack STA feels a bit mad, but that effect will be lessened when I fit different bars. I will also keep my peepers peeled for an in-line post that won’t look too out of place on this build. The hideous brake lever will also go.

Beyond that, there’s only aesthetic changes to come – sanding back the cable hanger to silver, sorting the mudguard line, fitting a slightly easier gear.

Luggage worrying to come though, given how impressively flexible this frame is, I’ll doubtless have to scale back my ambitions.

3 Attachments

Looks great!
Some classic northroad bars would look good on that.
re: luggage why not a carradice, either on the saddle or strapped to the bars with a home made fabios pec deck

Modern saddle is bugging me but otherwise it looks great.
Agree with spotter that a Carradice would make sense.

good work : )

While very #fashion, my Carradice swag will be reserved for the touring lite bike. Panniers are also, unfortunately, a little bit more practical. That said, I have sat on these bad boys for a long time...

1 Attachment

New bars copped via IG stories request (thanks Joe!). Just what I was looking for and all for a tenner. Hoping to pick up a pair of Tektro FL750 levers tomorrow to replace the gross Sturmey Archer lever (which also doesn’t fit). I’ll be selling one of those two levers if anyone is interested.

1 Attachment

Bars are perfect, what are they?

Ergotec Bugel, a whopping £12.50 new and oh so heavy https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ergotec-Trekking-Bugel-Steel-Bars-in-Silver-/144130237774

Oh yes.

Really pleased with how this has turned out. I still need to sort out re-radiusing the front guard, strip the cable hanger and fit self extracting bolts. Otherwise done for now.

The ride is really very nice. The slack seat angle is actually totally fine and though the frame is flexible, it’s only really noticeable when trying to ride no hands. The bike tracks really nicely but any bumps really throw you off sans phalanges.

Now to find somewhere stocking a Wald 176.

4 Attachments

Came out lovely!

like the classic look of this. good job.

good job, looks ace

Thanks for the kind words, all. It rides great. Have really enjoyed trundling around the last few days.

For now, we begin to #securethebag

2 Attachments

Looks cracking! How are you finding the cork grips?

They’re nice! I need to fiddle with the bar angle and possibly get a taller stem to make the most of their squishiness, but so far comfy provided you sit your hands in the right space. Yet to decide how I’ll glue them in place (Velo Orange has a good guide on this IIRC).