1960s Viking path racer invariably not lockable skidder

Fun jobs so far:

1. The rear-end is 110mm spaced, which is typical for bikes of this era. I had considered cold-setting the frame, especially as we have the tools to do so in work, but I've never actually done it and would prefer to try respacing the wheels first. Amusingly, the wheels were shifted by @passhunting after an attempt to convert the wheels to 135mm, so now I've got the fun of fully reversing this process.
   
2. The fork drops needed filled out from 5/16" to suit modern axles. I will profess to not knowing that this was even a thing prior to owning this bike and now I thoroughly regret not buying that rotary tool in Lidl the other night.
   
3. Conversely, I was pleased to have picked up that tap and die set from Lidl as tapping out the mudguard eyelets to suit M5 bolts was a real treat.
   
4. The frame is supposedly designed around a 27.2mm post but the one I have feels a bit baggy in there. I suspect shimming will be required.
   
5. The brake routing is presenting a serious conundrum. I've kept a hold of this nice old Cinelli stem for years that is drilled for cantis, but the cable routing to this will be hideous with flat bar levers. I momentarily considered using a V-brake noodle to smooth the routing but that's a dreadful idea. I will most likely resort to using a cable hanger and will just have to take the hit. The gross Sturmey Archer brake lever will go once I have settled on bars.
   
6. Much ruminating will happen over the best luggage solution for this bike. I will be commuting (for approximately 7 minutes, lol) every day on this bad wagon and would like to ditch my backpack. Pizza rack? Wald basket? Do I also want a rack on the back for occasional schlepping? Unsolicited advice welcomed.
   

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