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  • Good answers already. I use Toupret wood filler ready mixed in a pot for smaller repairs on exterior wood. I don't use the 2 part car body type fillers anymore but did for years and understand the advantages of quick drying etc.

    Repaircare has a 'normal' filler which can be used with a contractors gun as long as the gun is fairly heavy duty. That's a handy alternative to the body filler type.

    There is also a new offering similar to timbabuild and repaircare from county chemicals. I think it's cheaper than the other 2. Timbabuild is more fluid and I use it if I'm filling a hole where I can pour it in. Repaircare can be shaped and has the perfect consistency for most wood repairs where a chunk of wood is missing.

  • Timbabuild is more fluid and I use it if I'm filling a hole where I can pour it in.

    That's the erc10 which remains highly flexible once cured but is only recommended for 10mm deep repairs or splicing in new timber, cures in less than an hour though. The ebh60 is much more firm but takes longer to cure ~ 4hrs depending on ambient temperature and is less flexible once cured. Timbabuild also do a normal filler (called finish filler) that is good - they also do a cartridge based window putty that is much more convenient than trad linseed oil based stuff.

    Didn't know about the new offering from county chemicals. Interesting though may give it a look next time in ordering from them.

  • Spot on about the ERC10. In Repaircare the consistency is pretty constant across different cure times. I usually carry the ERC10 because there are times when 4hrs is too long and the 1hr repaircare is expensive. I do carry the 1hr repaircare but only use it where I need that consistency and fast drying.

    I've used a lot of the repaircare putty 'dryseal'. Masking the glass and wood and using a silicon tool to apply it. It's expensive but goes quite a long way.

    I rarely use linseed putty anymore. The drying time before painting is months realistically. You can't use linseed with laminated glass either and that's a lot of what I'm doing is upgrading the glass to acoustic or security laminate. The cheap putty in a tube that I can recommend is Top Gun. Quite easy to form, drys really well. With either of those I'd recommend using a mastic wetting agent in the water, makes it much easier to get a good looking smooth bead.

    I do prefer the Dryseal to Top Gun though it does come at a premium. Certainly it's easier to patch up putty with the dryseal. It blends better with old putty, shrinks less and skins for decorating really quick.

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