Home DIY

Can someone else do this please

1 Attachment

Absolute worst job.
Took me about a week to do mine, very rewarding though.
Pics are in reverse here btw.

3 Attachments

Didn’t fancy having it dipped?

Tempted to try that with ours rather than take on another horrific stripping / sanding job.

Looks excellent!

I probably should have looked into that!

I was expecting to sand the whole thing, but there is so much beading that it will be destroyed if I sand it all. I think I’m going to sand all the flat bits and then go and get some nitromors for the window surrounds and lower panels. Is there anything better than nitromors? How long will I need to leave that for?

Plan was to get it ready for painting tomorrow. Got another four hours or so today.

Cheers

I used a heat gun and a shave hook for the beading. There were multiple layers of paint and varnish over the wood which when melted turned into a horrid caramel type mess, unsure if that made it easier to remove as it was my first time doing it. Never again though!

Dipping fairly commonly causes the wood to swell and, much less commonly, can also destroy mortice and tennon joints.

Architectural salvage places love it because they don't care if a door swells and is 6 - 7mm wider than before it was dipped. You might.

Out of curiosity why did you decide to strip the paint?

What type of sander are you using? For something like that I'd take the door out of the frame, put it on trestles and sand the paint off with a belt sander and a really course 40 grit belt then pretty it up with a random orbit sander. Then for the beading use a heat gun (preferably an IR one @Airhead has a preferred brand I beleive).

Ps. You don't need to spend lots on a belt sander, Screwfix do one for under £50 that isn't bad (I bought one in an emergency on an away job after forgetting mine).

Others have mentioned it before, but if you go the paint stripper route, cover it with cling film once it’s on - stops ot drying out and makes it a bit more effective.
I’d leave it on for 24 hours or so for scraping back.

One of these has done me well too:
https://www.screwfix.com/p/harris-heavy-duty-tungsten-carbide-wood-scraper-2-/45940?tc=TB1&ds_kid=92700052136101914&ds_rl=1243321&ds_rl=1241687&ds_rl=1245250&ds_rl=1245250&gclid=CjwKCAjw3cSSBhBGEiwAVII0Z71-wAovHIZJfP0nuXuEI5OluubSJs9Wxs-xros_hEoObP7Ig4q3vBoC0PUQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

With all of this sander chat, mine has just died (in its defense, it is 20+ years old).

I'm guessing that Screwfix own brand should be ok for what I need it for (currently making good my shitty plasterboard joint filling efforts) - I have a shop vac to plug it into, and I wear a decent respirator too.

I’ll be selling my dewalt if you're interested. Not looking for much.

It’s a DWE6423

It will be matchy matchy with all my other Dewalt stuff, so yes please (if posting is not too much of a hassle).

Sure. Post is fine, it’s not massive.

£50 fair? I’ll pack in all the sanding discs I’ve got too.

Worried heat gun might crack the glass?

Going ok so far. Will get some stripper and a scraper and leave it over night.

1 Attachment

Nice looking door. Pointing looks in good nick too. Boy, when did I get this old?

Ha! It do be like that these days

Dipping fairly commonly causes the wood to swell and, much less commonly, can also destroy mortice and tennon joints.

Yeah I know - might bust the glass too.

The gaps around ours are large enough that a bit of swelling might be a good thing. The paint is an unholy mess.

Seems the trick is to choose and outfit that know what they are doing and will dry and re-finish the door for you.

I’d at least take the door off and get it flat outside on a trestle before attacking it with a sander or stripper or whatever.

Sort of thing you try once then never again.

Re. The door. It would seem the theme is NEVER AGAIN!
I’ve been there and I just agree with the hive mind.
From the pics, you’re doing a good job so far. Patience and effort will work and fingers crossed it stays dry too.
Good luck.

Stripping paint. It's a horrible job, the only thing I've found that really improves it is IR stripping but that can still crack glass. You can tape the glass with aluminium duct tape which reflects the heat, works most of the time.

Speedheater Cobra for the stripper. Something like this for the fiddly bits, other evil retailers are available :-

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Allway-contour-scraper-raspador-grattoir/dp/B000BQMZ9C/ref=asc_df_B000BQMZ9C/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309954504937&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=158550806757442451&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9045907&hvtargid=pla-313102784140&psc=1

Here's an example of IR stripping on a complicated sash design :-

4 Attachments

The putty and glass come out first, IR heats the putty allowing you to scrape it off like chewing gum. Aluminium ducting tape on a bit of 3mm hardboard to save the glass.

As you can see from the top picture it cleans up the mouldings very well.

Lord. Shows what goes into doing a proper job.

That’s enough for today. Starting to get tired and slipping with the scraper. Might have to do a bit more stripper in the morning, but hopefully most of the rest comes off easily and I can get on with the paint.

1 Attachment

I've got four of these racks up for grabs, 180x90x40 each, 175kg per shelf. £40 each, DM if of use

1 Attachment

Where are you?