Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

Yeah this is what lead me to do it. Had an 11 speed change spare, correct length.

Thanks for your thoughts guys, ultimately the frame is off to be repaired and I'll fir a 10 speed chain and replacement mech, but knocked my confidence in home maintenance and wondered if anyone had an idea what could've happened.

Jockey wheel bolt backed out and hit spokes? Thats if the obvious and the cage didn't just hit the spokes, that never ends well. Or inner plate already weakened and just decided today was the day.

Heard the 11's chain on 10s cass thing before, imagine theres mostly a difference in front mech shift, chain being a bit narrow.
10s 5800/6800 generation wasn't shimano's finest. Threw £££ cables at bikes with those groups this week to make them even vaguely shift well, total mushy PITA.

Or just a foreign object jumped in there. Recently sold a decent used bike, fitted mudguards expertly well to the bike. Customer got their kid to ride it back as they weren't confident. 1 hour later, lost looking customer and fairly angry looking customers partner as to why this bike was all mangled.
Honestly looked like kid had ridden it and thrown a stick in the wheel. Such destruction. Once they realized it was genuinely the kid that did it, it was all very apologetic and some wine ended up in my fridge, all good.

I can’t imagine a ten speed cassette and 11 speed chain were happy together.

Won't make the slightest bit of difference whether it's a 10 or 11 speed chian. The interal spacing for the chain is the same for 10 and 11 speed chains, and the cassette has no idea what the external width of the chain is. Whatever the problem is, it's not that.

New Avril album eh

Lolz, rushed screenshot takes no prisoners! Off to crop that now!

Yeah could be any of those things - jockey wheel still attached to the cage but the inner plate sheared just below the bolt hole. Seems one to file under "one of those things". Especially with used parts. I'd back myself to spot an obvious issue but a weakened plate maybe not.

Shifting (with DT shifters) before it let go was nice though! I have a replacement 7900 rear mech already and some fresh jockey wheels. Will take my time setting it up and run it through the gears on the stand once the frame is back to check and maybe get some closure.

Thanks for all the comments, much appreciated

Just bought an Acera long cage to replace a friend's trashed Tourney TX. Do they have the same cable pull /are they compatible? Thanks.

90% sure that's a yes without checking.

Yes. You are good to go.

And @scultura, thanks.

I’ve got an 11speed lever which clicks through all the gears when no cable is inserted but as soon as I put a cable in I can only get 1 click down.

Any idea what’s wrong with it or how to fix it?

Thinking of upgrading my front fork on my Marin from a rigid QR to a suspension fork.
It has boost spacing and I upgraded the wheels a while back to DT Swiss X1900.
Question is, would this fork be compatible with my wheels? I think it would be?

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Are you wheels 29 though? Because that's a 27.5 fork

Are you trying to shift with the hoods rolled forward? The hoods can interfere with the ratchet bit underneath the lever, if so

I think it was just a bit gunked up. Gave it a clean and seemed to work after that! Thank you though

seems like this should be obvious, but:

I have a Charge Plug somewhere around 2017 model. It has v brakes with two finger leavers. Snapped a brake cable the other day, and assumed a normal barrel end cable would do.

Well, it would do but it isn't the right end so it sticks out the back of the brake lever, although it does actually function ok.

The OEM cable has a metal sphere on the end. A globe. Like this:

Have done some googling but can't seem to find one like that.

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Think tektro or whoever's name is on the lever supply them with those. Never seen them aftermarket, usually use a road brake inner cable, pref a quality stainless + flexible job as they pivot a lot around the end of the ferrule/outer = cable end gets mangled and fails fast if you use shit cables. A little silicon grease would help too.

Great, thanks.

Will do that and maybe consider changing the levers at some point for some deore or similar.

https://www.velovitality.co.uk/products/ball-end-inner-brake-cable

Amazing!. Thanks

As you say it's the middle sprockets, I'm wondering if it's a case of trying to do some extra fine tuning to get the indexing absolutely nailed? I'm thinking if the tuning is a hair out, then the first 3/4 sprockets would still index, then the final 3/4 would be the same because these ones tend to be widely spread ratios more than the others. The middle few would be relatively close ratio, and would show up the tiniest misalignment in the indexing. So you might want to try fettling a little more, aiming to get the chain positioned absolutely bang on centre of the smallest sprocket when clamping down the cable pinch clamp, which would obviously mean quite a few tries. I think it's made more fiddly due to the chain being the extra thin 10 speed type, although I admit I'm used to dealing with 8 and 9 speed setups more.

I did something very similar to this in the summer. Was running a 9s chain on an 8s cassette but I don't think that contributed. I had fallen over* so may have dinged the alignment out a bit but on a forged steel DO I don't really think so. It happened just as I started off the next morning so I think what actually caused it was pedaling from a stop with the shifter in a different position from where the chain was sitting on the cassette. Standing start is going to give you max torque.
I've had this happen on another bike a long time ago going up a hill; it opened the DO up. Again high torque and I was probably trying to shift under load.
So if you were going slowly as you were trying the bike out, coasted for a bit, shifted too many gears and then put the power down, that could have done it.
Having a poorly aligned hanger isn't great, but I don't think it would contribute directly to this unless it was massively out.
I say torque because you need a lot of it to do bend a steel hanger and I think that something gets jammed if you don't allow enough time to let the derailleur do its job before loading up the chain.
Suggests another possibility of a lazy return spring or stiff pivots

*run off the road by a c*nt in a van

Thanks very much for this, lazy/gunked up mech would make sense! Never really had issues with used parts but definitely highlighted testing the drivetrain/indexing in a stand rather than a quick ride is better!

Also, sorry to hear about the see you next Tuesday in a van, not time for that crap

Like a complete numpty I cut my fork steerer to short, so need some new forks. I've got my eye on a segmented pair but they don't have a hole at the crown, is there anyway I could still use mudguards and a rack with them?

Yeah