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• #4827
This is true.
Install tyres, seat, deflate, remove valve core, syringe sealant in through the valve, replace valve core and pump up. It means there's never any mess and the whole thing is pain free.
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• #4828
They're great when they finally hold though. As gio says, good taping is key.
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• #4829
There's definitely still scope for mess but not like the explosive jizz fest above.
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• #4830
I've yet to be so unfortunate
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• #4831
explosive jizz fest
I saw them at the ICA in the early 90s, before they went mainstream
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• #4833
I'm sure that I did install them without sealant in the first place. But it randomly blew off the rim a few days ago, so I added another layer of tape and fresh sealant → pinged onto both beads → it blew off again.
I'll give it one more go with a fresh tape job then bin the tyre if it doesn't go on
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• #4834
New bike came with Hope 20Fives, i asked ahead of taking delivery if rims were taped and ready for tubeless, the reply was a firm 'absolutely'.
Whipped off the 4 Seasons and after a bit (quite a lot) of struggling and swearing, got a pair of Michelin Power Roads on.Couldn't get them to seat with track pump. Took them to LBS and they very kindly seated them with compressor. Looked like they were holding air so let them down, 40ml of sealant in each and pumped up to 70psi. Quick spin round the car park then left them overnight.
No dice, awoke to a pair of flat tyres and sad, jizzy puddles underneath them.In my eternal optimism I thought 'just chuck a load more sealant in and it'll be fine'. It wasn't. Fuckers just wouldn't hold air overnight but it was seeping out so slowly I couldn't tell what the issue was... Could I be bothered to take tyres off, clean and dry everything, re-tape and all that? Could I fuck.
LBS to the rescue. They said the tape job was pretty poor, single loop with overlap at valve hole; sealant had seeped under the bits that weren't on quite properly. LBS re-taped with Scotch 8898, two and a bit loops and chucked in 70ml of sealant in each wheel. All good now.
Unnecessary faff and expense but lesson learnt: don't trust factory taping!
1 Attachment
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• #4835
whats the best tubeless patch kit?
had a puncture that might have been a previous anchovy repair pulling out when i hit a pothole edge (haven’t checked) stuck an another anchovy in to get me home but this had trouble staying up so had to push in one of the big ones i had in my kit.
want to take the tyre off and patch the inside as it’s too new to bin. -
• #4836
my personal preference for this is a collection of snipped up inner tube pieces I have, and flexible superglue
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• #4837
Standard inner tube puncture patches apparently. Though not self adhesive because they're good for nothing.
Get all the old jizz off first though -
• #4838
This. Anchovies for a repair on the go, but not permanent
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• #4839
Normal patches are fine, I've done a few repairs with them without really taking the tyre off or getting rid of sealant, unless it's a tiny road sized tyre on a tight rim you can usually just pop off one bead, keep the sealant in the bottom, good wipe with some IPA on a rag, light sanding but don't go mad, glue (rubber solution) on the patch rather than inside the tyre (do that first so it goes tacky) smack on and hold in place firmly as best you can then hopefully reinflate with the sealant still mostly at the bottom so the air pressure can hold it in place for a little while before getting sloshed with it.
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• #4840
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W7vkOF5Msr0
Jim the bike Guy^ -
• #4841
Am I destined for disaster if I don't do two laps of rim tape on road rims?
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• #4842
If my recent experience is anything to go by, 100%.
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• #4843
Ha. So if I’ve done one roll of tape, inflated and syringed sealant in, which I have: can I just deinflate, remove the sealant, dry off and put another roll of tape on and then re inflate and reinfect sealant or am I best off just starting over once more?
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• #4844
Well, mine wouldn't hold air with one loop! If you're the gambling sort leave them overnight and see if they hold... if it's one loop of good tape, well taped and rim/tyre combo is a good one maybe it'll be fine?! If you'd rather play it safe then all off, clean and dry everything, new tape job with two loops.
Disclaimer: my tubeless experience extends to two sets of wheels, I am hardly an authority!
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• #4845
Most of my wheel/tyre combos have been done with a single wrap of tape. YMMV
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• #4846
How are the Michelin Power Road tubeless working out?
@Saffronspokes are you still happy with yours?
Trying to decide between these or some Goodyear Eagle F1s, both in 32c.
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• #4847
Yeah love mine, still puncture free in over 10,000 miles on them (granted on my second set now). I tried the Goodyears for a week got 2 punctures and then gave up on them. The only thing to be mindful of with the Michelin ones are that they come up large, mine are 35c on my 25mm rims.
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• #4848
Good to know! Were the michelins easy to seat/stay seated when deflated?
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• #4849
Yeah they were easy to set up (on Lightbicycle WR38). No issues with unseating.
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• #4850
I've cheerfully avoided any sort of puncture for years by cheerfully just not really riding a bike - but I assume tubeless has had some influence on the matter.
tiny little knick that resealed while out the other day, seemed fine, re-inflated, was a flat jizz puddle the next day, so crammed in an anchovy and headed out...
I am now a strong convert to amateur shaved legs: the Stans Sealant Wax Job is not the look I wanted as we head into short season. And my word was it an explosive jizz fest when the anchovy decided freedom had a nice ring to it...
It resealed fine after about 3km of projectile goo, and required almost zero break in my ride aside from an industrial hose down so in terms of pfaff it probably worked out slightly in favour of tubuless over inners. Will watch some anchovy videos though. And test some different goos.
I enjoyed this post.
Also ALWAYS seat the beads without sealant, this is a failsafe to make sure that you havent made any errors in taping or making valve hole, sealant cant be 'the thing' that holds it together.