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Jockey wheel bolt backed out and hit spokes? Thats if the obvious and the cage didn't just hit the spokes, that never ends well. Or inner plate already weakened and just decided today was the day.
Heard the 11's chain on 10s cass thing before, imagine theres mostly a difference in front mech shift, chain being a bit narrow.
10s 5800/6800 generation wasn't shimano's finest. Threw £££ cables at bikes with those groups this week to make them even vaguely shift well, total mushy PITA.Or just a foreign object jumped in there. Recently sold a decent used bike, fitted mudguards expertly well to the bike. Customer got their kid to ride it back as they weren't confident. 1 hour later, lost looking customer and fairly angry looking customers partner as to why this bike was all mangled.
Honestly looked like kid had ridden it and thrown a stick in the wheel. Such destruction. Once they realized it was genuinely the kid that did it, it was all very apologetic and some wine ended up in my fridge, all good. -
I did something very similar to this in the summer. Was running a 9s chain on an 8s cassette but I don't think that contributed. I had fallen over* so may have dinged the alignment out a bit but on a forged steel DO I don't really think so. It happened just as I started off the next morning so I think what actually caused it was pedaling from a stop with the shifter in a different position from where the chain was sitting on the cassette. Standing start is going to give you max torque.
I've had this happen on another bike a long time ago going up a hill; it opened the DO up. Again high torque and I was probably trying to shift under load.
So if you were going slowly as you were trying the bike out, coasted for a bit, shifted too many gears and then put the power down, that could have done it.
Having a poorly aligned hanger isn't great, but I don't think it would contribute directly to this unless it was massively out.
I say torque because you need a lot of it to do bend a steel hanger and I think that something gets jammed if you don't allow enough time to let the derailleur do its job before loading up the chain.
Suggests another possibility of a lazy return spring or stiff pivots*run off the road by a c*nt in a van
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BrickMan
gilmo789
@Josē
All, looking for some advice to prevent a miserable outcome second time around!
I built up a Kona Honky Tonk after paint (will get a thread up I promise), and during its first ride the rear mech/chain seized, causing it to move round with the cassette and bend the hanger before the chain parted at the weak link. I was mid-cassette so the chain did not drop between the cassette and wheel. Chain was a used 11 speed KMC and a second-hand 10-speed Dura Ace 7900 rear mech. I had also ridden about 3km before this happened, shifting up and down the cassette and big ring/small ring without issue.
Anyone have an idea why this might have happened? Only things I can think of is a) B-screw was poorly adjusted and top jockey wheel hit cassette/jammed the chain or b) rear mech cage was weak and gave out when I shifted gear (the cage plate nearest the spokes has parted by the upper jockey wheel).
**UPDATE: Also fitted a used chain and rear mech to my MTB and checked it in the stand. Would pedal for a few revolutions before the chain (bit dirty and not super smooth) would suck. Rear mech pivot against the frame not moving smoothly makes the effect of this worse. Seems to be the case. Strip and re-grease everything before installing!
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