Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

That is a cracking looking bike! It is going to fly I'm sure.

BB length should apparently be 111mm for Centaur double.
https://thecycleclinic.co.uk/products/campagnolo-centuar-bottom-bracket

Note also that Campagnolo/Tifosi BBs are ISO taper. Shimano and basically all others are JIS. They are not interchangeable. So a 111 mm JIS (Shimano) BB will put those cranks in a different position when compared to a 111 mm ISO (Campagnolo) BB.

Also just double checking - are you using carbon-specific brake pads? If you need to buy some I can recommend Swisstop yellow pads.

Sheldon would disagree about the non-interchangability of Shimano and Campagnolo tapers, but he's dead.

Thanks!

Ok amazing, I think I have a 111mm about so will try it. I'll keep in mind ISO/JIS as well, thanks for the heads up.

And yes, got some Swissstop Flash Pro's

As far as I'm aware the tapers are interchangeable as long as you adjust for the difference in effective spindle length. I think Sheeldon's point was that they still hold the cranks just fine but in a different position (i.e. further outboard/inboard).

Yep

58cm road bike. Am I likely to need anything longer than a 1700mm brake hose to reach the rear brake?

Exact same 9spd kmc chain, @TooTallTim could be the chain ring but I rarely use compared to the big ring to be honest. The skipping is under load and at the same point each crank rotation which makes me think ramps/pins on the big ring might be catching but chain line hasn't changed. Will keep investingating.

Got a pic of the chain sitting on the chainring?

My gut feeling is that this is just about ok - but want to check in case there are any horror stories out there 🫣

(Moving this fork over from another bike and the steerer not really long enough )

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For that stem I’d say it’s ok as the binder is fully on the steerer. I’d be Less keen on running a stem with two binders where one was above the level of the steerer.

I believe that the general rule is that if the top of the steerer is below the centre of the upper binder bolt then you'll be ok; however, I'm not sure how I'd feel about that on a single-bolt stem.

Courtesy of gbj_tester one option is, after you've adjusted your headset and tightened up the stem binder bolt, to tighten down the headset pre-load bolt nice and tight. This shouldn't cramp the headset bearings since the stem shouldn't move down if the binder bolt is tight enough, but should prevent the stem walking off the top of the steerer. Presumably if the stem were to start to loosen it would also rapidly stiffen up the steering as a bonus warning mechanism.

I need to use a 5800 Front derailleur for a while. Will it work with my r8000 shifters?

Trying to make sense of this chart:
https://productinfo.shimano.com/#/com/3.7?acid=C-432&cid=C-432

Why is my FD5800 highlighted?

Totally compatible

Ashamed to say I don't know the answer to this one despite being a professional mechanic:

I need to replace all eight head-in spokes on the drive side of a rear wheel due to damage from a chain dropping behind the cassette. Do I need to detension the whole wheel first or can I just replace them one at a time without worrying about the rest of the spokes until the final truing?

Thanks.

On something spendy, or composite, or known to be frail (zipp, lol) would detension. On anything else, would just send it. Bring all your new spokes upto tension evenly and use a decent tensiometer, makes life so much easier.

Detension the whole thing, then change the spokes.

Just saw your bike looking very nice love the look vintage look with the Shallow carbon wheels

Tips on getting a stuck spd off a crank with only the allen key. Tried plus gas soak and a mallet on the key . Wopping adjustable but no purchase ? Plus a pipe extension.

Does the pedal actually have some flats?

Assuming it doesn't have flats, if you have mole grips or a pipe wrench you might want to try:

• tape a single layer of inner tube around the exposed, round pedal spindle. Tightly!
  
• position crank at 4 o clock
  
• Allen key in slot, handle pointing backwards
  
• mole/pipe grips on spindle, handle pointing backwards also
  
• grip both tools (awkward reach-around) push down with all your weight
  
  

Careful you don't push towards any chainring teeth. Chain on big ring as a safety measure.

No flats on the pedal and i have taken the rings off. Ultegra 34/50

AS in, I would take out the affected spokes (8 of 32 right?) , then bring back up to tension with a tensionometer, makes life much easier. Leave the rest where they are, unless wheel is mangled in which case start again.

If it's on a bike with rings and chain you can usually position the other pedal under low shelf or similar that you don't care about and wrangle things so you can push dead hard on an extension that'll loosen the pedal whilst jamming the other one into the shelf holding everything else in place. Always try the pedals first if they're meant to be coming off. If that's not an option then I'd put the allen key in a vice and turn the crank, easier on the left one when you can extend it more easily.

In the past for stubborn pedals I have removed the crank and placed on the floor with the spanner/Allen key with extender flat to the ground and stood on the crank. Usually gets it off. You might need to bounce a bit on it but body weight is usually enough so long as the tool is in tight and can’t round off.

Heat is also a winner.

Also trying to undo it in the correct direction. Guilty of not doing that a couple times.

Don't want to impale myself so i will give it to the shop and they can impale themselves . It needs more muscle power than my weedy arms have.