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I've used loctite and spring washers, as I had a mudguard come loose once. It hasn't happened since.
MisterMikkel-
Yeah I've been decently happy with loctite once it's done, it's just that the whole process everytime I put mudguards back on is atrocious.
Not sure where I was going with my question actually, I think nobody has any practical experience with radially-oriented eyelets going all the way through the bridge, I've only ever seen it on Weigle's bike shown above.
I'm mostly concerned whether a nylstop nut will work as well as loctite : I've never had any problem with nylstop nuts on horizontal bolts, but these vertical eyelets on my bike (both at the fork crown and the seatstay bridge) have proven to very prone to rattling loose.
Veblen
My mudguard troubles continue :
1°) Is it possible to slightly re-radius stainless steel mudguards? My Berthoud fender cracked at the seatstay due to poor installation on my end. I had put it under tension with the stays instead of re-radiusing it by pulling the edges outwards, as instructed by Weigle et al. (I was actually removing the fender to do so when I noticed it was already cracked).
I tried my hand at re-radiusing it after the fact, and it wouldn't budge. In your experience, is it something you can't do with stainless steel mudguards due to the ductility of steel? Wondering if I should buy aluminum mudguards next.
2°) The eyelets at the seatstay bridge and chainstay bridge are pointing towards the hub, like on fancy custom rando bikes. It's pretty, but as someone who periodically removes mudguards, it's also a pain in the ass, as I have to clean every eyelet with alcohol then slather every bolt with loctite everytime I put the fenders back on, to make sure the bolts don't rattle loose.
I'm thinking of having the holes drilled throughout, so I can put a nylstop nut instead of relying on loctite. Aesthetics aside, is it a bad idea?
See the pic below for a better idea, though I won't put a pretty wingnut.
