Home DIY

Jokes. I just bought one of these.

Right now I only need it to drill loads of holes through concrete wall caps(?). So something super heavy seems unnecessary. Plus when I borrowed my mates cordless Makita it was (I guess) a 2-3kg one, and that was perfectly suitable for loads of stuff. Even then it was still too big for getting into tight spots in our broom cupboard thing, so I imagine something bigger would be worse. And other than the wall caps and fence posts we don't have concrete in our place.

If I do need something to do serious chasing, then I reckon I'd just get one of those cheap Titans from Screwfix as £/kg/joules they're the best value.

@konastab01 - cheers. I'll check it out.

Umming and ahhing whether I should just go for the cheapest dewalt cordless. I think they generally come with 4Ah batteries, and have read reviews suggesting a 9Ah battery. I've only got two little batteries, so while buying a bigger battery would obviously mean I then own a bigger battery, it also changes the cost. Then again idk if it's one of those trades reviews which isn't that applicable to DIY.

I used 2 corded models for many years. Eventually I bought a battery powered one because I had a complicated job to do in a garden. Otherwise having the bang for buck of corded would be my choice, especially if you are trying to save some cash. Try and get one with a chisel feature as well, they are really worthwhile removing tiles etc.

chisel feature

Cheers. That's good to know.

Glad it worked out. I first came across the stuff when I needed to remove marks left in a toilet U bend by one of those bendy steel unblocking rods. Works on those too.

Yeah I think your right, 2 coats better, but think it requires more skill to get it down well. Loads try and then end up with a gradient map of the cotswolds for walls.

Mine is one of the cheap Titans. It's heavy but for the very occasional time I need an SDS it doesn't make much difference. 99% of the time I'll just use a DeWalt cordless drill as that can get through most stuff.

Thanks, got that issue at work actually.

I have some of this aluminium-backed foam stuff. If I was going to wrap a water heater with it, which side would face outwards?

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I'm in the process of designing something similar to that drawer to sit between the wheel arches in the load bed of my pickup. That way I can put some checker plate on top and it will be relatively secure and allow me to keep my most used tools in the truck.

Is it only aluminium backed on one side?

Generally I think the aluminium is there as a reflector so I'd put it on the side you want the heat to stay.

Yes

That's what I thought but all the photos I've found have it the other way around.

Aluminium facing the tank, IMO. Doesn’t make sense the other way.

That's what I thought. I've flipped it now.

what is the best/ideal fixing to use to fix shelving to solid brick walls? getting round to installing the twin slot shelving system in our place so need belt and braces? Are the hammer fixings worth it? or rawl plug and screw if so what screws?

Unwind nuts and fix your load on them.

Ooer

I’d go with thunder bolts. Others may have different preferences.

A basic plug like this will work well most of the time. Use a drill bit .5mm smaller than the plug, tap them in with a hammer. The wings on these are designed to stop them rotating if you happen to hit the mortar rather than brick.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/fischer-plastic-wall-plugs-8-x-40mm-300-pack/42487

Screws. The metal rails are thin enough that you don't need a plain shank.. The screw size is recommended by Fischer at 4.5-6. I like to use the larger sizes for shelves. You need to make sure the heads of the screws fit in your rails. Length wise 50/60mm is a useful size.

Most of the Fischer plugs will do a good job on solid walls if you want a more exotic design.

You don't need to go nuts as above, unless you only think it's brick, but it turns out to be cinderblock.

Ask me how I know...

Thanks @Airhead for the details
Definitely brick @Howard

Came home the other day and this riveted metal strip that holds a upvc sash between between the window frame and box frame had snapped off as the window had blown open. Googling it now and looking at people to repair it where I live but is this a DIYable job if I can get the right size bits from say B&Q?
Thanks very much!

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Personally id use rawlplugs and decent screws, works on radiators we fit all the time.

Anyone got one of those cheap baby Titan wet'n dry vacuums?

Need to clean our rug, and the last one we cleaned took a million years to dry. Kinda wanted a shop vac anyway. But if they're shit and won't suck the water out of a carpet then there's no point.

Cheers.

Are the hammer fixings worth it? or rawl plug and screw if so what screws?

IME as a DIYer, hammer fixings are fucking brilliant for securing wood/mdf batons to walls. But in your eg I can't see the benefit.

I'm really into those nice Fisher rawl plugs. They just seem to work nicely.

I think that's totally DIYable, if you can find the parts. :)