• I remember I used to sport climb with a mate who insisted on tying in with a bowline. Not only is it harder to tie but it's also harder to check if it's tied wrong. And anyway, figure 8s are just prettier knots

  • To be fair if you’re sport climbing and falling on the rope a lot, I can see it makes sense (assuming you’re really comfortable tying it) as you can undo it with post climb, weak fingers…. I have had too many climbs where i was trapped on the rope afterwards until the pump went away!

  • You can't tie in at the end of a rope with it, but this is one of the best things about the alpine butterfly.

    Easy to tie with thick winter gloves or mild frostbite
    Can be tied one handed with a bit of practice. (but not with cold hands or gloves!)
    Easy to untie after loading
    Perfectly safe for tying in at the middle of a rope.

  • Yeah I do understand it, wonder what grade untying a very stuck figure 8 gets...

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