Main competitor is the bowline which can be undone more easily when loaded but is harder to remember + get right every time (for me at least, maybe I’m just slow with knots)
I remember I used to sport climb with a mate who insisted on tying in with a bowline. Not only is it harder to tie but it's also harder to check if it's tied wrong. And anyway, figure 8s are just prettier knots
To be fair if you’re sport climbing and falling on the rope a lot, I can see it makes sense (assuming you’re really comfortable tying it) as you can undo it with post climb, weak fingers…. I have had too many climbs where i was trapped on the rope afterwards until the pump went away!
Double figure 8. Safe, easy, just works.
Main competitor is the bowline which can be undone more easily when loaded but is harder to remember + get right every time (for me at least, maybe I’m just slow with knots)