• Double figure 8. Safe, easy, just works.

    Main competitor is the bowline which can be undone more easily when loaded but is harder to remember + get right every time (for me at least, maybe I’m just slow with knots)

  • I remember I used to sport climb with a mate who insisted on tying in with a bowline. Not only is it harder to tie but it's also harder to check if it's tied wrong. And anyway, figure 8s are just prettier knots

  • To be fair if you’re sport climbing and falling on the rope a lot, I can see it makes sense (assuming you’re really comfortable tying it) as you can undo it with post climb, weak fingers…. I have had too many climbs where i was trapped on the rope afterwards until the pump went away!

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