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we'll have to do some investigating.
From your pictures you have enough wiggle room to play with the reveal on the inside. Buuuuuuuuut (and it's a big but) you need to be careful in doing it, ideally when the opening is formed there is a slight fall on those bricks. That way any water getting in will hit it and make its way back outside. If you're going to play with levels inside I would strongly advise putting a dpm at the bottom of the opening (where it currently is), this should fold up along the inside surface of the window and finish just below the top of the worksurface to force any water ingress back outside. If you don't do this you run the risk of inviting damp in and you'll know fuck all about it until its way too late.
EDIT if that makes no sense let me know and I'll upload a sketch which should be easier to understand.
Bobbo-
I understand what you're getting at in terms of preventing water ingress, I think this is what you're suggesting? I insert some DPM under the exterior sill and sandwich it between the frame and worktop to capture any moisture that gets under the window frame/exterior sill?
@user69121 that's a really useful bit of info. I'm unsure what the current interior window sill is sitting on in terms of brick/block. I guess your point about looking more untidy is fixing the gap between left by the protruding lip of the exterior sill profile?
hamrack
Yup - we're getting it templated and made accordingly. Doing it just with the legs would raise the worksurface quite a bit, we'll have to do some investigating. Plus, the depth of the worksurface itself would then start to interfere with the window, so I think some recessing is needed whatever height we choose.
@user69121 indeed - as we're getting it cut to order they'll hopefully be able to do it in one, but otherwise a joint should be fine. There's a bit further below that mitre, and it looks like (from what I can see on the outside) that it's sitting directly on the brickwork.
I'll lift a tile and see what I can find.