Home DIY

The window sills in our office and main bedroom are currently tiled in a fetching lilac. It's something I decided I'd put right myself and asked the builder to leave (might as well spend money on tasks that were simply too big!).

I have a 2400mm window board (MDF), which I'll cut down into 2no. ~1100mm individual boards, and I plan to adhere them to the tiles using Sticks Like Shit Turbo. So leaving the tiles in place, in order to avoid damaging any new plaster (or indeed the window frames) in any removal efforts.

I have read that using a new, metal hacksaw blade is the best bet for straight, clean cuts on MDF. And I plan to cut slightly over length and sand back as required. I'm realistic to accept that some caulking will be required.

Can anyone see any pitfalls with this?

If you are feeling lazier than that, we painted some tiles in our bathroom recently and were pleasantly surprised by the result (ie looks average rather than total shite). Choice of colours is v limited though.

I have the window board already so will press on! But I'd be interested to know what paint you used (and if you recommend it) as our fire place surround is nice but has some tiles affixed which look a bit twee... might be able to rescue them in a similar manner.

One small point, and I’m sure someone else can confirm, you need a mask to sand mdf. I suspect the dust is dangerous. Please wait for further confirmation of that.

We recently used this from B&Q on shower tiles and been impressed with how well it's stuck, time will tell if it holds up.

Yeh I've read that a mask is advisable. Got a handful in the shed, I think!

Thanks for sharing, this is the kind of thing I had in mind for the fire surround.

Points to anyone who can find me the darkest grey, but not black masonry paint, in stock.

Depends what you are cutting. I like the compact Milwaukee for lightweight stuff and cables:-

https://www.powertoolsgb.co.uk/cgi-bin/ecom.cgi?Command=ShowProduct&db_pid=46576#.YietHRPP0UE

But if I'm cutting carpet or something I need to put some power into I use this because the shape is very ergonomic:-
https://www.snickersuk.com/product/hultafors-utility-knife-urz/

Just make sure you don't get the spring loaded version, you want the type the blade locks out on.

Downpipe from F&B is very close to black. Alternatively buy black and put a bit of white in it.

Thanks. I want something easily repeatable, as mixing is exactly what the painters did and I need to redo most of it. May as well do it all with something that is close and repeatable.

Zinsser All Coat in Anthracite looks the ticket

Not sure I'd use it on walls but cills and window surrounds it's brilliant. I've not used the matt, I guess that could work on walls but it might well be overkill.

It's to redo the lower part of the wall, what I wrongly refer to as the splashback

Yes, I know the bit you mean, All Coat is perfect for that. Those sort of areas can get mould or mildew in them depending where they're situated. If there's public access they are horrible. Normally it's good jet wash them before painting.

All Coat is not really self-priming in that situation, I've seen early failure in exterior areas if it's not primed.

How stupid is it to try and reduce the height of a window sill? There's currently ~40mm between the kitchen worksurface and the top of the tiled window sill, but I'd like to make it flush with the new worksurface. We can easily cope with a slightly higher worksurface to reduce the amount that needs to be removed but I guess I'd need to make some cuts and chisel out the brick to a suitable level - is there a reason this would be a terrible idea?

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Have you tried lifting one of the tiles?
bitd some window cill timbers were very deep,
removal might be easier than expected.

The limiting factor is the window frame.

There is some adjustment on the legs of kitchen units but it's closer to 20mm than 40. The legs are adjusted from underneath the units and are basically plastic screws, pull off the plinth and check how much thread is showing, more thread = less scope to increase the height. Remember you will need to check ALL the legs as you will need to lift all of the units.

Next is slightly more invasive don't do it until you know how much you need to take off the sill and if you're likely to be able to achieve it. You will need to take the tiles off. As the reveal is tiled it's most likely plaster under them if you're in luck it will be bonding and top coat. You may be able to take enough of this off to get where you want.

There is no guarantee that you can get this done. Even if you can, you've got to make good with the tiles, the worktop will sit under them.

P.S there is a rough and ready way to do it: shim up the feet of the kitchen units until the worktop is at your desired height, you will still need to do something about the tiles.

Thanks for the thoughts. The tiles will be going anyway, so I'll investigate more thoroughly when I take them off. New units are going in too, they're 720+(137-175). Existing worksurface is at 905, so can easily sneak 10-20mm on that using the legs, depending on if the new surface is 20 or 30mm. I'm pretty certain I'm going to have to remove something more solid than plaster to make it work, but I still don't think there's a reason it's not possible.

Even if you can, you've got to make good with the tiles, the worktop will sit under them.

To clarify, I'm hoping to have the worksurface extend back over the window sill flush with the rest of the worksurface, covering the area where the tiles currently are. This is definitely going to require some surgery, my query is as much about whether this is a bad idea (don't think so?) as it is about whether it's possible (yes, with some difficulty/destruction).

is there a reason this would be a terrible idea?

You'll need a deeper worktop than normal, or have a long joint across the width of the window.

The mitre joint of the window frame
shows there's at least the depth of the tiles to play with. Have a look outside to see how much frame depth is below the bottom of the mitre.

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40th birthday present from the folks arrived. Will get the block plane myself.

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Nice present. Congrats on reaching 40.

Cheers. I've a couple of weeks to survive yet, I think they were just a bit trigger happy when they knew what I wanted.

I'm hoping to have the worksurface extend back over the window sill flush with the rest of the worksurface

In that case I'd say your best option is to see if you can do it with the legs . If you can't use ply under the legs to lift the units up the extra 20ish mm. Doing what you're planning I'd get a stone / resin type company out to template and custom make the worktops as it will be the most reliable way to get a good, long lasting finish

Bit jealous of that. It's better than my rider low angle jack. Also worth treating yourself to a good honing guide.