• Random one - the heater in our roomster has been playing up recently, local garage has had a quick look at it when it's been in for service etc. but no dice... recently it's also been a bit sluggish at low revs/speed - didn't ever think the two could be related but end of last week the engine check light came on, shortly followed by the DPF one - it sees mainly 20 mile each way motorway trips most days so not predominantly short journeys.

    Gave it a good run at ~3k rpm over the weekend & the lights are still on, however it feels much better at the low end, but also the heater has started working again - wtf? Could it be some sort of sensor problem or is it about to shit itself?

  • What specifically do you mean by the heater was playing up, but now was working again? was it blowing cold constantly despite the engine being up to temperature?

    I had an issue with one of ours where the coolant system had got a significant airlock in it, and after I ran the car to temperature with the heater turned up to the max and the system burped a load of air, it started blowing warm air in the car again

  • Is it one of those VAG cars with the silica bag in the header tank and has the silica tank popped?

  • Which engine, code, year?

    If its a 1.2 or 1.6 CR TDI the DPF will only regen if there are no stored or permanent codes that affect the fuel system, turbo, cat, dpf, and it has to have > 10 or 15 litres of fuel in it, be fully up to temp (the dash 'gauge' being in the middle doesn't always mean its actually warmed up) for coolant and oil. Driving above 25 or 35 kph and not full throttle.

    Best to allow them best change to do a regular active regen (assuming all above is OK) is drive a main road, 4/5/6th gear in the 1900 to 2500 rpm range. Super high revs does not equal high exhaust gas temps (often the opposite!).
    If i'm helping someone with DPF issues. Once is successfully done a full active regen under those conditions and you can see (on OBD tool for whatever car it is) that the ASH % has gone all the way down and its come back into passive mode, I'll do a few full throttle/high demand runs when cat + dpf is still hot to blow any loose ash out. But beyond a couple of pulls, you'll only be making more Soot again.

    Heater issue Lynx is probably already on it with the desiccant bag fiasco, a whole bunch of 2012 to 18 (and maybe newer?) have these bags which can burst, because why wouldn't they, which then fills your engine + heater + coolant system with little balls which clog up the passages.

    Suggest taking it to a VAG/Skoda/Audi/VW specialist who will be more familiar with these cars than a regular place. I kinda suggest that to anyone with any car issues once it gets beyond 'needs oil or brake pads' as most garages are too general, they don't have much specialized knowledge.

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